I still remember stepping off the airport bus into Riga's crisp autumn air back in 2018, the kind that bites just enough to wake you after a red-eye from London. The Daugava River glittered under a weak sun, and the Old Town's spires poked up like fairy-tale props. What started as a scouting trip became a love affair with this Baltic gem. Whether you're plotting a quick escape or dreaming of blending historic streets with beach relaxation, this guide distills multiple visits into an immersive adventure—cobblestone wanders, hearty rye bread with smoked fish, and the thrill of a city mixing Soviet echoes with Art Nouveau sparkle.
Riga, Latvia's vibrant capital, delivers big in a compact package: UNESCO-listed Old Town, the world's largest Art Nouveau district, and a 30-minute train to Jūrmala's pine-backed beaches. This plan prioritizes flow over checklists, leaving room for surprises like stumbling into a local folk dance. We'll slot in the Jūrmala excursion on Day 3 for that perfect balance. Let's get into your Riga adventure.
Land at Riga International Airport (RIX) and hop the cheap airport bus (Line 22, €2-3, every 30 minutes until midnight) to the city center—drops you a quick walk from Old Town gates. Base yourself at Neiburg Hotel (33 Jauniela), a boutique gem in a restored 19th-century building (from €100/night). Their courtyard breakfasts with fresh curd cheese and cloudberry jam hit the spot.
Enter via the Swedish Gate (Zviedru vārts), Riga's last medieval survivor from 1367. Savor the scent of damp stone and fresh pirāgi buns from carts. Hit the House of the Blackheads (11 Doma laukums; €9 adults, open 10 AM-7 PM daily, last entry 6 PM). Rebuilt post-WWII, it showcases the merchant brotherhood's legacy: vaulted prisons, porcelain courtyards, and a starry Great Hall. The terrace view over Doma Laukums at golden hour, with buskers and kvass-sipping couples, is magical.
Next, St. Peter's Church (1 Grēcinieku iela; €9 entry, tower €5 extra; 10 AM-6 PM). Ascend for Gulf of Riga panoramas—Jūrmala teases on clear days. Lunch at Rozengrāls (8 Rozena iela), a candlelit tavern with elk stew in bread bowls (€15) and herbal mead.
Loop to the Three Brothers (Mazā Pils iela 17-21), Cat House (10 Meistaru iela), and Livu Laukums for beers. Dinner: smoked sprats on rye (€3). End at Black Magic Bar (Ala Pils iela 3). (About 8km walked.)
Wake to Riga Cathedral's organ (8 Doma laukums; free recitals). Breakfast at Lido (55 Krasta iela)—sauerkraut, gray peas, pancakes for €10. Ride the carousel for fun.
Stroll Alberta iela in the Quiet Centre: Mikhail Eisenstein's facades (2a-10a) swirl with beasts and florals—pure 1900s opulence.
Europe's largest market (by Daugava; Mon 9 AM-6 PM, later Fri-Sat). Dive into pavilions: cheeses, herring, rye bread, pelmeni (€4). Haggle for amber upstairs. Decompress in nearby Bastejkalns Park with swan boats.
Afternoon: Museum of the Occupation (20a Strēlnieku iela; €6; Tue-Sun 10 AM-6 PM)—poignant Soviet/Nazi history. Dinner at Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs (19 Peldu iela): pork knuckle (€18), live bands.
From Central Station (13. janvāra iela), elektrichka trains (€2-3, every 30 min, 30-40 min to Majori). Watch birch woods unfold.
Jūrmala's 20km sands (Blue Flag clean) meet whispering pines. Rent bikes (€5/hr), wander Jomas iela for ice cream. Hit Dzintari Concert Hall grounds and wooden villas.
Lighthouse Cafe (Jomas iela 6): flounder platters (€20). Then Jūrmala Open-Air Museum (Lienes iela 9; €6)—ethnographic huts and windmills.
Train back by 5 PM. Evening: Victory Park views or Daugava cruise (€15). Toast with šmakovka liqueur.
Book trains via pv.lv. Layer up—Baltic weather shifts fast. This itinerary leaves you sated, sandy, and story-ready. Riga's charm and Jūrmala's calm make it unforgettable.