Óbidos Literary Town: 7 Must-Read Books to Inspire Your Visit

The Town That Demands to Be Read

I remember my first visit, years ago. I was clutching a dog-eared paperback, looking for the silence that only old places seem to hold. I found it in the courtyard of a crumbling manor house, listening to the wind whistle through the eaves. That’s the thing about Óbidos: it demands to be read, not just seen. It is a town of layers—Roman foundations, Moorish ramparts, Royal chambers, and now, the vibrant, buzzing heart of a literary culture that pulses through the cobbled lanes.

To truly prepare for a journey here, to walk the same stones that queens and conquistadors walked, you need the right companion. Not just a guidebook, but a narrative that unlocks the secrets of the place. Whether you are planning a trip to the Óbidos International Literary Festival or simply seeking a quiet escape, here are seven essential books to pack in your suitcase, paired with the specific corners of this walled city where they deserve to be read.

1. The Book of Disquiet by Fernando Pessoa

The Lisbon That Bleeds into Óbidos

If you want to understand the Portuguese soul—the melancholic, introspective, and beautifully fractured psyche of the nation—you must read Fernando Pessoa. While much of The Book of Disquiet is set in Lisbon, its mood is universal. It is a fragmentary autobiography of a shy, introspective bookkeeper named Bernardo Soares, wandering the streets of the capital and observing the world with a detached, poetic sadness. It is the ultimate "heteronym" of the soul.

When I read Pessoa in Óbidos, I feel the same sense of detachment that Soares describes. The town, protected by its massive walls, feels like a fortress of the mind. You can wander the ramparts, looking out over the rolling plains of the Oeste region, and feel completely separate from the modern world.

Where to read it:

Take a copy to the Castelo de Óbidos (Castle of Óbidos). Today, the castle houses a luxury Pousada (historic hotel), but you can access the battlements and courtyards. Sit on one of the stone benches overlooking the valley. Feel the history beneath you—the castle was a wedding gift from King Afonso V to his cousin Isabella of Coimbra in 1458. As you read Pessoa’s thoughts on the "sensation of being a soul in a body that is a ruin," the ancient stones seem to hum in agreement.

• Address: Rua Direita do Castelo, 2510-001 Óbidos, Portugal.
• Hours: The exterior and ramparts are generally accessible during daylight hours.
• Why here? The isolation of the castle matches the solitude of Pessoa’s prose.

2. The Name of the Rose by Umberto Eco

Medieval Intrigue in the Labyrinth of Books

There is no book more suited to the atmosphere of Óbidos than The Name of the Rose. While set in an Italian monastery, the novel is a love letter to the medieval world, to the fear of the written word, and to the labyrinthine nature of knowledge. Umberto Eco weaves a murder mystery around the library of a 14th-century abbey, a place where books are guarded like treasures and logic battles superstition.

Óbidos, in its prime, was a center of royal power and learning. Walking its streets, you can almost imagine the rustle of vellum and the whispering of conspiracies. The town’s architecture—gothic, Manueline, and baroque—mirrors the layered history Eco so brilliantly depicts.

Where to read it:

The Livaria Bertrand in Óbidos is a sanctuary for readers. It is located in a building that dates back to the 17th century, originally a Jesuit college. The vaulted ceilings and stone walls make you feel as though you are browsing the shelves of a monastic library. Find a corner near the window, open this dense, intellectual thriller, and let the quiet of the room envelop you.

• Address: Largo de São Tiago, 2510-193 Óbidos, Portugal.
• Hours: Typically open daily from 10:00 AM to 7:00 PM.
• Why here? The bookstore’s history as a place of study and religion perfectly complements the novel’s setting.

3. The Lusiads by Luís de Camões

The Epic of Portuguese Exploration

You cannot visit Óbidos without acknowledging its royal history, and no work defines Portuguese identity more than Camões’ Os Lusíadas (The Lusiads). Written in the 16th century, this epic poem celebrates Vasco da Gama’s discovery of a sea route to India. It is a grand, bombastic, and patriotic work that fueled the Age of Discovery. Óbidos was a favorite residence of many Portuguese kings, and it was from towns like this that the expeditions were funded and launched.

Reading Camões is reading the DNA of Portugal. It is about destiny, the sea, and a small nation’s outsized ambition.

Where to read it:

I recommend reading snippets of it while standing on the Town Walls (Muralhas). The walls of Óbidos are remarkably well-preserved, stretching for 1.5 kilometers. As you walk the perimeter, you can see the vast green plains and, on a clear day, the distant shimmer of the Atlantic Ocean. Reading the verses about "bold heroes" and "famous captains" while looking out toward the sea they sailed connects the land to the ocean in a profound way.

• Address: Access points along Rua da Direita or near the main gates.
• Hours: The walls are an open public space, accessible from sunrise to sunset.
• Why here? To physically connect the landlocked fortress to the maritime glory it helped spawn.

4. Night Train to Lisbon by Pascal Mercier

The Philosophy of Waiting

This novel sparked a surge of interest in Portuguese literature when it was published. It tells the story of Raimund Gregorius, a Swiss Latin teacher who abandons his life to catch a train to Lisbon after meeting a mysterious Portuguese woman. It is a book about the power of books, the weight of the past, and the desire to escape the mundane.

The title itself evokes the feeling of traveling to Portugal. While the book focuses heavily on Lisbon and the writings of a fictional Portuguese philosopher, the mood of sudden, impulsive travel is something every Óbidos visitor can relate to. It’s about the decision to leave the known for the unknown.

Where to read it:

The Porta da Vila. This is the gatehouse where visitors enter the old town. It features a small, intimate chapel dedicated to Our Lady of the Stone (Nossa Senhora da Pedra), adorned with 18th-century blue and white tiles depicting scenes from the life of the Virgin. It is a place of transition—literally, you pass from the modern world into the medieval one. Sitting on the steps here, watching the world go by, reading a book about a man who drops everything to travel, feels incredibly fitting.

• Address: Porta da Vila, 2510-193 Óbidos, Portugal.
• Hours: Accessible 24/7.
• Why here? It represents the "threshold"—the physical act of entering a new story.

5. The Sorrow of War by Bảo Ninh

A Global Literary Connection

The Sorrow of War is not a book about Portugal, but it is a profound work of literature that has found a special home in Óbidos. During the Óbidos International Literary Festival, the town opens its arms to global voices. This novel by Vietnamese author Bảo Ninh is a visceral, heartbreaking account of the Vietnam War from the perspective of a soldier. It is raw, non-linear, and deeply traumatized.

Óbidos has become a bridge between cultures. Bringing a book that represents a different, painful history to this peaceful Portuguese town highlights the universality of storytelling. It reminds us that while we read about medieval kings and Portuguese explorers, literature is also a tool for empathy across borders.

Where to read it:

The Convent of the Order of St. Francis (Convento de São Francisco). This 17th-century convent is often a venue for the literary festival’s events, exhibitions, and cultural activities. The architecture is severe and beautiful, with a large cloister that offers a quiet, contemplative atmosphere. Sitting on a bench in the cloister, surrounded by ancient stone, reading about the horrors of war, creates a powerful contrast between the peace of the setting and the turmoil of the text.

• Address: Largo de São Francisco, 2510-215 Óbidos, Portugal.
• Hours: Often open during festival periods or by appointment for events.
• Why here? It serves as a hub for international literature, making it the ideal spot for a book that challenges the Western canon.

6. The Girl Who Saved the King of Sweden by Jonas Jonasson

Scandinavian Wit in a Medieval Setting

Sometimes, you need a break from heavy history and deep philosophy. Jonas Jonasson’s novel is a delightfully absurd tale of a woman born in a slum in 1940s Stockholm who inadvertently changes the course of world history. It is a picaresque, funny, and surprisingly sharp critique of politics and power structures.

Óbidos, despite its serious history, has a whimsical side. The town is famous for its Ginja (sour cherry liqueur), served in tiny chocolate cups. The sweetness of the drink and the tartness of the fruit are a surprise, much like Jonasson’s novel.

Where to read it:

I suggest you take this book to a small bar in the main square, Rua Direita. This is the town's main artery, lined with shops selling Ginja, local crafts, and cork products. Find a table outside, order a shot of Ginha (spelled with an 'h' in the local dialect), and laugh at the absurdity of the story while soaking in the lively, tourist-friendly atmosphere.

• Address: Rua Direita, 2510-191 Óbidos, Portugal.
• Hours: Shops and bars are generally open from 10:00 AM to 8:00 PM.
• Why here? To experience the lighter, more playful side of Óbidos culture while reading a humorous novel.

7. A Descoberta da Europa by José Saramago

The Critical Eye of a Nobel Laureate

José Saramago, Portugal’s Nobel Prize winner, is known for his dense, unpunctuated prose and his sharp political commentary. A Descoberta da Europa is a collection of chronicles that reflect on European identity, history, and politics. Saramago often wrote about the absurdity of borders and the shared humanity of the continent.

Óbidos, a border town in a sense—defending the kingdom from the outside—provides a fitting backdrop for Saramago’s skepticism about nations and power.

Where to read it:

The Museu Municipal de Óbidos (Municipal Museum). Housed in the former Town Hall and former Paço dos Rei (Royal Palace), the museum contains artifacts that trace the town’s history from prehistoric times to the present. Standing in a room filled with Roman inscriptions and medieval tombs, reading Saramago’s thoughts on the construction of Europe, you realize how fluid and artificial these borders really are.

• Address: Largo de Santa Maria, 2510-193 Óbidos, Portugal.
• Hours: Generally open Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 AM to 1:00 PM and 2:00 PM to 6:00 PM (closed Mondays).
• Why here? It grounds Saramago’s abstract philosophy in the concrete reality of local history.

The Ritual of Reading in Óbidos

To truly engage with these books in Óbidos, you must adopt the pace of the town. Do not rush. The beauty of Óbidos is that it forces you to slow down. The streets are too narrow for cars; the stone is uneven; the inclines are steep.

I usually buy a bottle of water (or wine) from a local shop, find a secluded spot on the walls, and read until the sun begins to dip below the horizon. The "Golden Hour" here is legendary. The limestone glows, the terracotta roofs turn a deep russet, and the shadows lengthen.

If you visit during the Óbidos International Literary Festival (usually held in July), the town transforms. It becomes a bookshop itself. Every alleyway hosts a stall, a reading, or a discussion. The air is thick with conversation. It is the perfect time to bring these books to life, to meet other readers, and to see the town at its most vibrant.

A Note on the "Vila Literária"

Óbidos has officially styled itself as a "Vila Literária" (Literary Town). This isn't just marketing; it’s a commitment. You see it in the small details—the quotes etched into the pavement, the bookshops tucked into ancient arches, and the general respect for the written word.

Before you go, I recommend stopping at Livraria do Óbidos (different from the Bertrand, and often found near the main square or during festivals). It is a smaller, independent spot that often carries rare local titles and English translations of Portuguese classics. The owners are usually passionate guides who can point you toward the latest literary releases connected to the region.

Practical Guide for the Literary Traveler

• Getting There: Óbidos is about an hour and a half drive from Lisbon. The scenic route through the Oeste region is worth it. There are also buses, but having a car allows you to explore the nearby beaches (like Praia da Foz do Arelho) which are stunning.
• Staying: I highly recommend staying overnight. Once the day-trippers leave (around 5:00 PM), Óbidos returns to its whispering quiet. There are several small guesthouses and the castle hotel that offer an immersive experience.
• Eat: Don't just read about food; eat it. Try the Bacalhau à Óbidos (salted cod stew) and the Queijadas de Óbidos (a sweet, creamy cheese tart). These are the flavors that fuel the imagination.