There is a version of Cascais that arrives on postcards. It is a glossy, sun-bleached thing, smelling of expensive sunscreen and the faint, sugary perfume of waffle cones. It is the Cascais of the crowded promenade, of the marina packed with yachts that look more like sculptures than boats, of the high-end boutiques where the price tags might make you blush. And listen, I love that Cascais, too. There is a joy in its unabashed resort-town swagger, in the way it wears its wealth and its history on its sleeve. I have whiled away many happy hours there, nursing a bica and watching the world glide by, feeling the pleasant hum of a place that knows exactly what it is.

But if you linger long enough, if you walk just one street back from the water, or wait until the day-trippers have been swept back toward Lisbon on the tidal wave of the 4:30 p.m. train, you start to feel the pulse of another Cascais. This is the one that hums just beneath the surface. It’s a Cascais of secret alleyways that smell of baking bread and salty sea air, of hidden beaches tucked behind jagged cliffs where you can hear nothing but the shush and pull of the Atlantic, of hidden viewpoints that hold the sunset like a secret they’re just about to tell you.

I’ve been coming to this corner of Portugal for more than a decade, first as a wide-eyed tourist, then as a curious traveler, and now, I hope, as something of a local confidante. I’ve made it my mission to peel back the layers, to find the places that feel less like a performance and more like a conversation. This is the Cascais I want to share with you—the one that waits for you to find it, the one that rewards curiosity and a willingness to get a little lost.

Let’s leave the marina behind. Let’s turn our backs on the main drag and go hunting for the soul of this beautiful town.

The Secret Coves and Hidden Sands

We have to start with the coastline. The dramatic, windswept, powerfully beautiful coastline is the reason Cascais exists. The main beach, Praia da Rainha, is a postage stamp of perfection, but it’s often as crowded as a rush-hour subway car. So, where do the locals go when they want to feel the sand between their toes without a stranger’s towel touching theirs?

Praia da Raposeira: The Local's Crescent

My first real "aha!" moment in Cascais came when I stumbled, quite by accident, onto Praia da Raposeira. It’s not a secret in the truest sense—it’s right there, visible from the main coastal road—but it requires a specific act of will to reach. You have to want to go there. From the main road, you take a small, unassuming ramp down towards the sea, passing under the railway line. Suddenly, you’re in a different world. The beach is a small, crescent-shaped embrace of golden sand, protected by rocky outcrops on either side. Because of its shape, the water is often calmer here than on the more exposed beaches, making it a favorite for local families and those in the know.

There’s a tiny, charming restaurant, Restaurante Raposeira, perched right on the sand, its blue and white awnings a classic Portuguese sight. I once spent an entire afternoon here, nursing a glass of crisp Vinho Verde, eating the most perfectly simple grilled squid, and watching a father teach his daughter how to bodyboard. No one was trying to sell me anything. No one was posing for Instagram. It was just life, unfolding gently by the sea. It’s a place that feels like a discovery, a quiet reward for looking in the right direction.

Praia da Rainha: The Queen's Secret

But if Raposeira is a gentle handshake, Praia da Rainha is a hug from an old friend. Wait, I can hear you thinking, isn't that the most famous one? Yes, it is. But its "secret" is not in its location, but in its temporality. This tiny jewel box of a beach, which once belonged exclusively to Queen Amélie (hence the name, "Queen's Beach"), is a victim of its own beauty during the day. The trick is to claim it when it’s at its most magical. Go at sunrise.

I’m not a natural early riser, but for Praia da Rainha, I’ll make an exception. Waking up in the dark, walking through the silent, sleeping town, and arriving at the cliff's edge as the sky begins to blush from inky black to soft lavender is a spiritual experience. You’ll likely have the beach entirely to yourself, or maybe share it with one other person who understands the secret. The way the first rays of sun hit the cliffs, turning the rock a fiery gold, and the way the sea, still cool from the night, laps at your feet—it’s a moment of profound peace that you can’t buy or replicate.

Praia da Ursa: The Wild Edge

Now, for something truly wild. Let’s head west, past the Guincho dunes, towards a place that feels like the edge of the world. A bit further along the N37-4, past the popular windsurfing spots, you'll find Praia da Ursa. This is not a beach for the faint of heart or for those carrying a lot of gear. The path down is treacherous, a steep, narrow, and rocky descent that requires good shoes and a steady hand. But the payoff is absolute cinematic grandeur.

Ursa is a collection of tiny coves separated by fantastical, wind-sculpted rock formations that look like they were carved by a surrealist sculptor. The beach itself is a mix of coarse sand and pebbles, and the water is a churning, powerful blue. It’s raw, untamed, and utterly breathtaking. It’s one of my favorite places to watch the sunset, as the light catches the strange, beautiful rocks and casts long, dramatic shadows. It feels like you’ve discovered a lost world.

The Tidal Pools of Costa da Caparica

And I can’t talk about hidden swimming spots without mentioning the tidal pools of the Costa da Caparica, just across the Tagus estuary. While technically not in Cascais, it’s a favorite escape for Cascais locals on a hot day when the Atlantic waves are too rough for comfort. The drive over the bridge is an adventure in itself, a journey from the chic coast to a more rustic, laid-back beach culture.

The tidal pools here are vast, intricate networks of rock-walled enclosures that trap the sea at high tide, creating safe, sun-warmed swimming holes for children and adults alike. The main complex at Fonte da Telha has a pool bar and can get busy, but if you walk either direction along the coast, you’ll find smaller, quieter pools. The smell of salt and sun-warmed rock, the sound of children laughing, the feeling of floating in a giant natural bath carved by the moon and the tides—it’s pure, simple joy.

Hiking the Wild Edges: Trails with a View

Cascais isn't just about lounging on the sand; it's a paradise for walkers and hikers. The "Marginal" coastal road is a fine place for a stroll, but the real magic happens when you trade pavement for dirt paths.

Guincho to Boca do Inferno: The Windy Walk

The trail that defines the area for me is the one that connects the Guincho dunes to the Boca do Inferno ("Hell's Mouth"). You can start at the magnificent Forte de Guincho, a 17th-century fort that now houses a cultural center, and walk west. The path immediately immerses you in a landscape of rolling, blonde grasses and towering, shifting dunes. The wind is a constant companion here, shaping the landscape and whipping the sea into a frenzy of whitecaps.

To your left is the wild, untamed ocean; to your right, the dunescapes look almost like a desert. After about 20 minutes of walking, the path narrows and you’ll arrive at a series of lookouts. The first time I walked this, I thought, "This must be Boca do Inferno." But it’s not. You have to keep going. The real Boca is a dramatic set of cliffs where the sea, on a stormy day, crashes into a natural arch and sends geysers of spray high into the air. It’s a natural spectacle. But the secret of this walk isn’t the destination; it’s the journey itself. The feeling of being utterly alone on the edge of Europe, with the wind in your hair and the roar of the ocean in your ears.

Cruz de Portugal: The Inland View

For a completely different hiking experience, one that feels a world away from the coast, head inland to the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park and seek out the trail to the "Cruz de Portugal." The starting point is near the picturesque village of Alcabideche. The trail begins innocently enough, winding through fragrant pine forests and cork oak groves.

As you climb, the landscape opens up, and you start to get these incredible, panoramic views of the entire region—the coast, the hills of Sintra, the sprawling plains towards Lisbon. The final climb is a bit of a grunt, but when you reach the cross at the summit, you feel a real sense of accomplishment. This is where you come to understand the sheer scale and diversity of this landscape. It’s not just a beach town; it’s a place of deep, rolling hills and wild, untamed nature. On a clear day, you can see forever. I like to pack a small picnic of cheese, bread, and a flask of coffee and just sit up there, watching the world from above.

Hidden Histories and Bunker Blues

Cascais has a rich and surprisingly strange history, far beyond its fishing village origins and its royal patronage. One of its most fascinating and overlooked stories is tied to the 20th century and the paranoia that gripped Europe. This is the story of the Cascais Bunker.

Tucked away, almost invisibly, near the Largo da Assentação, is a concrete structure that looks like nothing more than a large, ugly utility box. But this is the entrance to a vast, forgotten military bunker. It was built in the 1940s, during the Estado Novo regime, as a secret command center designed to be the last line of defense for the Portuguese government in the event of an invasion. It was a self-sufficient city beneath the city, complete with living quarters, communication centers, and power generators. For decades, its existence was a state secret. Today, it’s largely abandoned, a ghost of the Cold War.

You can’t just walk in—the doors are chained—but you can peer through the grates and imagine the echoing silence within. It’s a piece of hidden history, a concrete reminder of a tense and forgotten era, standing in stark contrast to the sunny, leisurely atmosphere of the town above. It’s a favorite spot for urban explorers and history buffs, a place that adds a layer of grit to Cascais’s polished surface.

The Citadel's Hidden Art Galleries

Speaking of history, many visitors walk right past the Citadel (Cidadela de Cascais) without realizing the treasure it holds. Yes, it’s a historic fortress, but within its walls is a thriving community of artists. The Citadel is home to a surprising number of small, independent art galleries and studios. The Associação de Artes Visuais (AAV) has a space there, and you can often find artists at work in their studios, which are sometimes open to the public.

There’s a quiet, creative energy within the ancient walls. It’s a place to find unique ceramics, paintings, and sculptures, far from the mass-produced souvenirs of the main street. Wandering the ramparts here, with the sea on one side and the studios on the other, is a wonderful way to spend an afternoon. It feels like you’re walking through a living museum.

The Soul of the Town: Alleys and Tascas

The true heart of old Cascais is not on the seafront; it’s in the network of narrow, cobbled streets that run behind the main road, particularly around the Misericórdia area. This is the off the beaten path Cascais old town alleys experience. As you wander, the scent of roasting chicken from a churrasqueira mingles with the salty breeze. You’ll see laundry hanging from wrought-iron balconies, hear the clatter of dominoes from a tiny bar, and find small, family-run shops that have been there for generations.

One of my favorite pastimes is to simply get lost in these streets. You’ll eventually find your way to the bustling weekly market, but the journey is the point. It’s in these alleys that you feel the town breathe, that you see the rhythm of daily life away from the tourist gaze.

Finding the Tascas: Authentic Portuguese Food

This brings me to the most important part of any travel experience: the food. And in Portugal, that means finding the "tascas." These are the unpretentious, family-run restaurants, the places where the food is honest, hearty, and cooked with love. Cascais has a few gems that have resisted the tide of trendy fusion restaurants.

O Galito

One such place is O Galito. It’s not fancy. The decor is simple, the waiters have been there for years, and the menu is a testament to traditional Portuguese cooking. But their frango no churrasco (grilled chicken) is legendary. It’s marinated in a secret blend of spices and cooked over charcoal until the skin is crisp and smoky and the meat is unbelievably juicy. I once saw a local family order three entire chickens for a party of four, and I knew I was in the right place. Eating here feels like being invited to a Sunday lunch at a Portuguese grandmother’s house.

Adega do Sebastião

Another essential spot is Adega do Sebastião. Tucked away on a quiet street, this is another place that has been serving up classic Portuguese comfort food for decades. The walls are covered in azulejos (painted tiles), the chairs are simple, and the atmosphere is warm and boisterous. This is the place to come for a hearty "prato do dia" (plate of the day), a simple bowl of caldo verde (kale soup), or a perfectly cooked piece of fish. The prices are reasonable, and the wine is good and cheap. It’s a place to eat slowly, to talk, to feel a part of the community, even if just for an hour.

Finding the Swell: Surfing and Playful Waters

Cascais is a surf town, but the main beaches can be intimidating for beginners. The waves are often powerful and the lineups crowded. So, where does a beginner go to find their feet?

The Secret Beginner Spot: Towards the Estuary

For the true, hidden beginner spot, you need to look towards the Tagus estuary side of the peninsula, specifically around the area of Caxias or Carcavelos. While Carcavelos can be a madhouse, the beaches just south of it, near the Forte de São Julião da Barra, often have a sandbar that creates a gentle, rolling wave perfect for learning. It’s not a "secret spot" in the sense of a hidden cove, but it’s a secret in that most tourists never venture this far from the Cascais marina.

The water is calmer, the current is less of a threat, and you can find a spot with enough space to fall off your board without causing a diplomatic incident. Several surf schools operate in this area, and they know exactly where to go on any given day to find the perfect gentle wave for their students.

Praia da Raposeira: The Experienced Secret

If you’re a more experienced surfer looking for a spot with a bit more character but still off the main circuit, keep an eye on Praia da Raposeira on a day with a big swell. The rocky headlands on either side of the beach can focus the wave energy, creating a punchy, fun peak that breaks over a sandy bottom. It’s a fickle spot, and you have to get the conditions just right, but when it’s on, it’s a fantastic, uncrowded wave. It’s the kind of place you hear about through a friend of a friend, the kind of spot that makes you feel like you’ve earned your ride.

The Grand Finale: A Sunset with a Secret

Every town has its designated sunset spot. In Cascais, for many, it’s the seafront promenade. But for the view that will truly stay with you, the one that feels like a secret handshake, you need to head back up to Guincho. Specifically, to the clifftops just north of the main beach car park.

There’s no grand viewpoint name, no signpost, no monument. There’s just a small dirt track that leads from the road towards the cliffs. Park your car at the main Guincho lot and walk north along the dirt track. After a few minutes, you’ll find a series of natural lookouts, perched high above the churning sea. From here, the view is absolutely colossal. You can see the entire coastline stretching south towards Cascais and the rock formations of Boca do Inferno. The sun doesn't just set; it performs. It sinks into the vast Atlantic, painting the sky in impossible shades of orange, pink, and violet. The wind whips around you, the ocean crashes below, and you feel, for a moment, that you are at the very edge of the world.

I have seen sunsets all over the globe, but the ones I’ve witnessed from this unnamed spot at Guincho are the ones that are etched into my memory. It’s Cascais at its most dramatic, its most romantic, its most wild. And it’s a secret that, until now, I’ve been almost reluctant to share.

Conclusion: The Attitude of Discovery

Unveiling Cascais is not about checking off a list of sights. It’s an attitude. It’s the willingness to take the ramp under the train tracks, to follow the path that doesn’t have a sign, to order the dish you can’t pronounce, to climb the hill just to see what’s on the other side. The tourist trail is a wonderful place, a bright and shining path. But the real magic, the soul of a place, is always found in the quiet shadows just beside it. So go, enjoy the marina, have an ice cream, but then, I implore you, turn your back on it for a while. Go find the other Cascais. It’s waiting for you.