There is a particular magic to the light in Portugal, especially in the late afternoon when the day begins to cool and the shadows stretch long across the vineyards. Living in Lisbon, I’ve come to treat the surrounding regions not just as a playground for the senses, but as a pantry of flavors that defines the soul of the country. While the city hums with the energy of its cobblestone streets and tiled facades, the true heartbeat of Portuguese gastronomy lies just beyond the horizon, in the rolling plains of Alentejo, the sun-drenched slopes of the Arrábida mountains in Setúbal, and the misty, mystical hills of Sintra.
A wine day trip from Lisbon is more than just a chance to drink; it is a lesson in history, a study in geography, and a masterclass in hospitality. It is about the way a crisp white wine tastes of the Atlantic breeze in Setúbal, or how a bold red from Alentejo tastes of the sun-baked earth and cork trees. It is about standing in a vineyard that has been tended by the same family for five generations and understanding that you are tasting time itself.
If you are looking to escape the city for a day, here are the top seven wine day trips that I return to again and again, each offering a distinct window into the viticultural soul of Portugal.
1. The Herdade do Esporão Experience (Alentejo)
Address: Herdade do Esporão, Monte de Trigo, 7950-122 Reguengos de Monsaraz, Portugal
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM (Tours run at specific times; booking essential). Closed on Sundays and public holidays.
The Alentejo region is often called the "breadbasket of Portugal," a vast, golden plain of cork oaks, olive groves, and vineyards that seems to stretch on forever. It is the heat of the day and the cool of the night that gives Alentejo wines their distinctive character—bold, structured, and deeply comforting. And there is no better ambassador for this region than Herdade do Esporão.
The drive from Lisbon takes about two hours, but it feels like a journey back in time. As you leave the city sprawl behind, the landscape opens up, turning into a tapestry of ochre and green. Arriving at Esporão is an event in itself. The estate is magnificent, anchored by a 16th-century manor house that sits alongside state-of-the-art winemaking facilities.
I remember my first visit here; the air smelled of damp earth and eucalyptus. The tour is not merely a walk through a factory; it is an immersion. You descend into the barrel cellars, where the temperature drops and the scent of oak becomes intoxicating. The silence down there is profound, broken only by the soft footsteps on the stone floor.
But the true highlight is the tasting. Do not rush it. The staff, incredibly knowledgeable, guide you through a flight of their wines, often paired with their own olive oils and cheeses. The Reserva Branco is a revelation—creamy yet vibrant—but it is the reds, like the Esporão Reserva, that command attention. It is a wine of substance, with notes of blackberry, spice, and that unmistakable Alentejo warmth.
If you go, I highly recommend booking lunch at their restaurant, Esporão. The menu is a love letter to the region’s ingredients. I still dream of a simple dish of beans with pork, slow-cooked until the meat falls apart, eaten with a slice of crusty bread and a glass of their finest wine. It is rustic elegance at its best.
What makes it special:
It is the sheer scale and quality of the operation. Esporão proves that you can produce world-class wine on a large scale without losing the soul of the product. Their commitment to biodynamic practices and sustainability adds a layer of depth to the experience that resonates with the modern traveler.
Getting there:
Renting a car is the best option for this trip, allowing you to explore the nearby medieval village of Monsaraz after your tasting. However, several tour operators in Lisbon offer guided trips to Reguengos de Monsaraz, often combining the vineyard visit with a stop at the Alqueva Dam.
2. José Maria da Fonseca & The Moscatel de Setúbal (Setúbal)
Address: José Maria da Fonseca, Quinta do Piloto, 2950-231 Setúbal, Portugal
Hours: Monday to Friday, 9:00 AM – 12:30 PM and 2:00 PM – 5:30 PM; Saturday, 10:00 AM – 1:00 PM. Visits must be booked in advance.
Setúbal sits just across the Tagus estuary, a short drive south of Lisbon, yet it feels like a different world. The climate here is heavily influenced by the Atlantic and the Sado River, creating a microclimate perfect for the production of Moscatel de Setúbal—a sweet, fortified wine that is dangerously drinkable and deeply complex.
Visiting José Maria da Fonseca is like stepping into a museum of Portuguese wine. Founded in 1834, it is the oldest wine company in Portugal. The contrast between the old cellars and the modern production facilities is striking. The "Old Cellar" (O Velho) is a cathedral of wine, filled with barrels coated in a black mold called bolor (a friendly fungus that helps regulate humidity). Walking through these corridors, you can feel the weight of history. I once saw a bottle of wine from 1900 sitting on a shelf, still looking pristine, a testament to the longevity of these fortified wines.
The tour here is fascinating because it covers the entire process, from the massive fermentation vats to the intricate art of blending. The guides are excellent storytellers, explaining how the Periquita grape (a local red variety) and the Moscatel grape define the region.
The tasting is the reward. The Moscatel de Setúbal is a dessert wine, but it is not cloying. It has notes of orange peel, figs, honey, and a hint of dried flowers. It is liquid gold. I love drinking it slightly chilled after a heavy meal, but honestly, I could drink it anytime. They also produce excellent table wines under the Dominius label, which showcase the fresh, mineral-driven whites that are becoming the region's new signature.
What makes it special:
It is the heritage. You are tasting wine from a house that has survived wars, regime changes, and economic shifts. The connection to the local terroir is palpable, and the Moscatel here is the benchmark for the style.
Getting there:
Setúbal is only a 40-minute drive from Lisbon via the 25 de Abril Bridge. You can also take the train (Comboios de Portugal) from Roma-Areeiro station, which takes about an hour. Once in Setúbal, the winery is a short taxi ride from the center. While you are there, make time for a seafood lunch at a restaurant along the waterfront—the fried cuttlefish is legendary.
3. Quinta da Romaneira: The Douro in Alentejo (Alentejo)
Address: Herdade da Romaneira, 7950-122 Reguengos de Monsaraz, Portugal
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM (By appointment only).
While Herdade do Esporão is the grand estate, Quinta da Romaneira feels more like a boutique sanctuary. It is located in the same area of Reguengos de Monsaraz, but the vibe is different—more intimate, more focused on the luxury of the landscape. The estate is stunningly beautiful, with rolling hills that remind many visitors of the Douro Valley, but with the warmer, drier climate of the Alentejo.
I recall arriving here on a warm autumn afternoon. The silence was absolute, save for the sound of the wind in the cork trees. The architecture blends seamlessly with the landscape, using local stone and wood. It feels less like a factory and more like a country retreat.
The visit here is highly personalized. Because they focus on quality over quantity, the tours are often private. You are walked through the vineyards, learning about the specific grape varieties they cultivate—Aragonez, Trincadeira, Alicante Bouschet—and how the granite soils influence the wines.
The cellar is a place of quiet reverence. It is here that the wines age in French oak barrels. The tasting is an event. They produce a range of wines, but the Quinta da Romaneira red blend is the star. It is a wine of incredible finesse, balancing power with elegance. It has layers of dark fruit, tobacco, and a velvety texture that makes it irresistible. They also produce a Tawny Port that is exceptionally smooth, bridging the gap between Alentejo and the Douro.
Lunch at their restaurant is a refined affair. Unlike the rustic hearty meals of other Alentejo spots, the food here is sophisticated, designed to highlight the nuances of the wine. It is a place to linger, to talk to the winemakers if you are lucky, and to truly appreciate the tranquility of the countryside.
What makes it special:
The sense of place is incredibly strong here. It is a "Douro" style estate in Alentejo, focusing on high-quality, low-yield winemaking. It is perfect for those who appreciate the aesthetics of wine and the landscape as much as the taste.
Getting there:
Driving is necessary. The route takes you through the scenic Alentejo countryside. The road to the estate can be a bit off the beaten path, so having a GPS is essential. It pairs well with a visit to the medieval town of Monsaraz, which is only 20 minutes away.
4. Quinta dos Carvalhais (Dão Region - Extended Trip)
Address: Quinta dos Carvalhais, 3525-203 Penalva do Castelo, Portugal
Hours: Monday to Friday, 9:00 AM – 12:30 PM and 2:00 PM – 5:30 PM; Saturday, 10:00 AM – 1:00 PM. Visits by appointment.
Note: The Dão region is about 2.5 to 3 hours from Lisbon, making this a long but incredibly rewarding day trip. It is best suited for those who want to see a different side of Portuguese wine.
The Dão region is often overshadowed by the Douro and Alentejo, but it is arguably the most elegant wine region in Portugal. Nestled in a bowl of granite mountains, the vines are protected from the harsh winds, creating a unique microclimate. Quinta dos Carvalhais, owned by the legendary Portuguese wine family the Pintos (of Quinta do Crasto fame in the Douro), is the perfect introduction to this region.
The drive north is beautiful, passing through pine forests and granite villages. Arriving at Quinta dos Carvalhais, you are struck by the modernity of the winery against the backdrop of the ancient mountains. The winery is an architectural gem, built into the hillside.
The tour here is educational. The Dão region is famous for the Touriga Nacional grape, which is often associated with the Douro, but here it expresses a different personality—more floral, more refined, less heavy. The granite soils give the wines a distinct mineral streak.
Walking through the vineyards, you can see the old vines, some over 60 years old, producing incredibly concentrated fruit. The cellar is a study in concrete and stainless steel, alongside the obligatory oak barrels. The tasting usually includes their white wines (often made from Encruzado) which are crisp and saline, and their reds which are structured and age-worthy.
One of the unique things about Carvalhais is the connection to the Pinto family. Their expertise from the Douro is applied here, creating wines that have the structure of the Douro but the freshness of the Dão. It is a fascinating intersection of styles.
What makes it special:
It offers a glimpse into the "hidden gem" of Portuguese wine. Dão wines are currently having a renaissance, and tasting them at a top estate like Carvalhais shows you why. It is a trip for the serious wine lover who wants to understand the nuances of Portuguese terroir.
Getting there:
You absolutely need a car for this trip. The roads are good, but the distance requires an early start. If you make this trip, consider staying overnight in the region or stopping in the historic city of Viseu on the way back to break up the journey.
5. Quinta da Aldeia de Cima (Ribatejo/Tomar Region)
Address: Rua da Quinta, 2560-209 Aldeia de Cima, Portugal
Hours: Monday to Friday, 9:30 AM – 12:30 PM and 2:00 PM – 5:00 PM; Saturday, 10:00 AM – 1:00 PM (By appointment).
Ribatejo is the region that surrounds the Tagus river, and it is the land of the forcados (the men who face the bulls) and the campino (the cattle herders). It is a rural, agricultural region that produces wines meant for the table—wines to go with food, to be enjoyed in the company of friends. Quinta da Aldeia de Cima captures this spirit perfectly.
Run by the Soares family, this winery is a labor of love. It is not as flashy as the big estates in Alentejo, but it is authentic. The focus here is on the local grapes: the Castelão (for reds) and the Fernão Pires (for whites).
Visiting here feels like visiting a friend’s farm. The welcome is warm, often by João Soares himself. He is a character, full of stories about the land and the history of the region. The tour is informal, taking you through the vineyards where you can see the proximity to the river (the name "Ribatejo" means "bank of the Tagus").
The wines here are a revelation of the region’s potential. The whites are incredibly aromatic and fresh, perfect for a summer afternoon. The reds are fruity and soft, easy-drinking but with enough character to stand up to the rich, meaty cuisine of the area.
I remember a tasting here that turned into a three-hour lunch. We ate sopa de pedra (stone soup, a hearty bean and pork soup) and grilled pork, washed down with copious amounts of their wine. It wasn't fancy, but it was one of the most memorable meals of my life. It was the soul of Portugal on a plate.
What makes it special:
It is a deep dive into a region that is often overlooked by tourists. It is affordable, unpretentious, and offers a look at the everyday wine culture of Portugal. It is the perfect antidote to the "polished" wine experience.
Getting there:
Located about an hour north of Lisbon, near Tomar (home of the Templar Castle), it is an easy drive. You can easily combine this visit with a tour of the Convent of Christ in Tomar, making for a culturally rich day.
6. Quinta da Bacalhôa (Setúbal)
Address: Quinta da Bacalhôa, 2950-231 Setúbal, Portugal
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM. Visits to the wine cellar require an appointment.
While José Maria da Fonseca is the historic giant of Setúbal, Quinta da Bacalhôa is the artistic and modern sibling. The estate is located in the heart of the Arrábida Natural Park, surrounded by pine forests and facing the sea. The location alone makes it worth the trip—the drive up the winding road to the estate offers breathtaking views of the Atlantic.
The property is as famous for its art as it is for its wine. The winery houses a contemporary art museum, and the grounds are dotted with sculptures. The main house, a 15th-century building, was once owned by Luís de Camões (the famous Portuguese poet), adding a layer of literary romance to the visit.
The wines of Bacalhôa are known for their consistency and quality. They produce a wide range, but their Moscatel de Setúbal is a rival to any in the region. It is rich, opulent, and has a beautiful acidity that keeps it from being heavy.
What I love about Bacalhôa is the interplay of light and sea. Tasting their white wines, such as the Piriquita (a blend of Arinto and Fernão Pires), on the terrace overlooking the vineyards, you can literally taste the salt spray in the air. It is a wine that speaks of its origin.
The tour usually includes a walk through the underground cellar, where the temperature is constant and the atmosphere is cool and quiet. It is a stark contrast to the bright, sunny vineyards above.
What makes it special:
The combination of wine, art, and nature. It is a sensory overload in the best possible way. The setting is arguably the most beautiful of all the Setúbal wineries.
Getting there:
It is a 45-minute drive from Lisbon. The route via the A2 and then the A12 offers scenic views of the river and the Arrábida mountain range. After the visit, drive down to the beach at Portinho da Arrábida for a swim if the weather is warm.
7. Quinta do Pilriteiro (Sintra)
Address: Rua do Murtal, 2710-602 Sintra, Portugal
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 10:00 AM – 1:00 PM and 2:00 PM – 5:00 PM. Visits must be booked in advance.
Sintra is famous for its palaces and castles, its misty forests, and its romantic atmosphere. It is not, traditionally, known as a wine region. However, tucked away in the hills just a few kilometers from the historic center, Quinta do Pilriteiro is proving that Sintra can produce excellent wine.
This is a family-run project that focuses on small-scale, high-quality production. The terroir here is fascinating—cool nights due to the altitude, and soils rich in clay and limestone. It is a stark contrast to the baking heat of Alentejo.
Visiting this winery is a very intimate experience. You are likely to be hosted by the owner or the winemaker. They will take you into the vineyard, which is right next to the winery, and explain the challenges of growing grapes in such a humid, forested environment. They grow international varieties like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, as well as Portuguese ones like Arinto and Castelão.
The wines are surprising. The Chardonnay is Burgundian in style—rich, buttery, with good acidity—while the reds are elegant and restrained. Tasting these wines in the context of Sintra feels like discovering a secret. It changes your perception of the region; it is not just about history and fairy-tale architecture, but also about the earth beneath your feet.
The tasting is usually held in a small, modern tasting room or outside in the garden. It feels exclusive and personal. I once spent an afternoon here chatting with the winemaker about the difficulties of organic farming in a region prone to mildew, and it was as educational as any lecture I’ve attended.
What makes it special:
It is the novelty. Sintra is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and having a vineyard of this quality right there is a delightful surprise. It is the perfect "off-the-beaten-path" option for a wine lover visiting Sintra who wants a break from the crowds.
Getting there:
From central Sintra, it is a 10-minute drive or a short Uber ride. It is very accessible. You can easily combine a morning hike or a visit to the Moorish Castle with an afternoon tasting here. Because it is so close, you don't lose much time in transit, maximizing your time with the wine.
Practical Advice for the Wine Tourist
Embarking on these day trips requires a bit of planning to ensure you get the most out of the experience.
Transportation:
For Alentejo and the extended Dão trip, renting a car is almost mandatory. The roads are excellent, and the freedom to stop at a roadside stall for cherries or to take a photo of a cork oak forest is invaluable. However, for Setúbal and Sintra, you have options. While a car offers flexibility, guided tours are plentiful and take the stress of navigation (and drinking) out of the equation. For Setúbal, the train is a viable, scenic option, though you will need a taxi to reach the wineries from the station.
Booking:
The days of walking into a winery unannounced are largely over, especially at the top estates. Portugal has embraced the culture of scheduled tourism. Always email or call ahead. Most wineries have English-speaking staff and easy online booking systems. Booking at least a few days in advance is usually sufficient, but for weekends or peak season (May-September), book a week or two ahead.
Timing:
The "best" time to visit depends on what you want to see. Spring (April-June) is glorious; the vineyards are lush and green, the wildflowers are blooming, and the weather is mild. Harvest season (late August to October) is chaotic and exciting, though some wineries restrict access during this intense period. Winter can be rainy and cold, but the tasting rooms are cozy, and you are guaranteed a quiet, personal experience.
Etiquette:
Portuguese wine hospitality is warm and generous. The pour in tastings can be generous—don't feel pressured to finish every glass if you are visiting multiple places. It is perfectly acceptable to spit (there are usually spittoons provided). If you buy wine, most wineries will ship it for you, or you can carry it with you. Shipping is usually the safer bet if you are buying cases.
Food:
Never go to a wine tasting on an empty stomach. While many wineries offer light snacks (crackers, cheese), the Portuguese way is to eat with the wine. If a winery offers a lunch option, take it. If not, plan your route so you stop in a local town for lunch before or after the tasting. The food in these regions is as important as the wine.
Conclusion
Leaving Lisbon for a day to explore these wine regions is not just a change of scenery; it is a change of rhythm. It is trading the frantic energy of the city for the slow, steady heartbeat of the countryside. It is understanding that a bottle of wine is a map of the land, the weather, and the people who made it.
Whether you are standing in the barrel room of a historic estate in Setúbal, eating a hearty stew in the plains of Alentejo, or sipping elegant wine in the shadow of the Sintra mountains, you are participating in a tradition that stretches back centuries. These trips are an invitation to slow down, to taste, to smell, and to connect.
So, choose a region that calls to you. Book the tour. Drive the dusty roads. And when you raise that glass, take a moment to look at the light on the vines. It is the same light that has nourished these grapes for generations, and it is the same light that will guide you back to Lisbon, full of wine, food, and the memory of the land.