There’s a specific kind of magic that settles over Lisbon when the summer crowds finally disperse. The city exhales. The narrow, tiled streets of Alfama feel less like a shuffleboard court and more like a living, breathing neighborhood again. The scent of grilled sardines gives way to the crisp, damp smell of autumn leaves and the distant, salty promise of rain. As someone who has spent over a decade chasing flavors and stories along the Portuguese coast, I’ve come to believe that the real heart of this country reveals itself not in the blinding glare of July, but in the soft, moody light of the off-season.

Lisbon in the winter is a gift, but its true treasures are often found just beyond the city limits. This is the time for spontaneous day trips, for pulling on a wool sweater, grabbing a thermos of coffee, and hopping on a train heading north, south, or east. Forget the jam-packed tour buses and the hour-long queues for castles. The off-season offers a different kind of Portugal: one of windswept beaches, cozy wine cellars, ghost towns reclaimed by art, and dramatic natural parks that feel like the edge of the world. And the best part? You can do it all without a car, for the price of a good lunch, and still be back in Lisbon for a late-night ginjinha. Let’s go explore.

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The Salt-Kissed Mystery of Arrábida

Most visitors see the Arrábida mountains as a mere backdrop, a jagged silhouette on the drive to Setúbal. They miss the secret tucked at its base: a stretch of coastline so Caribbean-blue and white-sanded it feels like a geographical lie. This is the Costa de Caparica’s wilder, more sophisticated cousin, and it’s reachable from Lisbon in under an hour. This is one of the best quiet beaches near Lisbon in winter.

On a drizzly Tuesday in November, I decided to chase the sun south. The journey itself is a study in changing landscapes. From Lisbon’s Oriente station, the train to Setúbal rattles through the city’s eastern edge, then plunges into the flat, rice-paddy-filled plains of the Alentejo coast. It’s a humble, unassuming ride, but it primes you for the drama to come. The real magic begins when you switch to the small local bus in Setúbal that winds its way towards the small fishing village of Portinho da Arrábida.

Stepping off the bus, the air is different. It’s cleaner, tinged with the sharp scent of wild fennel and pine clinging to the steep slopes of the mountain that plunges directly into the sea. In summer, this cove is a sardine can of bodies. In the off-season, I often have the entire expanse of soft, cream-colored sand to myself. The water, protected from the open ocean by the mountain, is startlingly clear. On the day of my visit, a thin veil of mist hung over the water, and the only sounds were the rhythmic shush of the waves and the cry of a lone gull. I saw a couple walking a dog, their footprints the only ones in the sand, and an old fisherman in a yellow slicker, patiently casting a line from the rocks.

This is a place for quiet contemplation. It’s perfect for a family that wants to let kids run free without fear of losing them in a crowd. For couples, it’s the definition of romantic—a private beach with a dramatic, moody backdrop. Pack a picnic, because the options are limited. I brought a wedge of aged cheese from the Mercado da Ribeira, a crusty bread roll, and a flask of Arinto, a crisp local white wine that tastes of green apples and sea spray. Huddled under a rocky overhang as a brief shower passed, eating that simple meal, I felt like a king.

Getting there: Take the Comboios de Portugal (CP) train from Lisbon’s Entrecampos or Roma-Areeiro stations towards Setúbal (the line is called the Linha do Sul). The journey takes about an hour and costs around €6-€8 one way. From the Setúbal train station, you’ll find the bus stop for the Scotturb 443 line just outside. The bus ride is a scenic 30 minutes and costs about €3. The total round trip is easily under €25, leaving plenty of budget for that bottle of wine. This is a fantastic option for best off-season day trips from Lisbon without a car.

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The Roman Soul and Ginjinha Heart of Óbidos

If Arrábida is a natural escape, Óbidos is a step back in time. While it can feel crowded on summer weekends, visiting on a cold, bright winter’s weekday is like having a fairytale town all to yourself. The approach alone is breathtaking: a perfectly preserved medieval walled city perched on a hill, visible for miles across the flat plains of the Oeste region. It’s a postcard that moves.

I remember my first winter visit. A sharp wind was blowing, whipping my hair across my face as I walked the 15-minute path from the train station to the town gate. The wind chased everyone indoors, leaving me to wander the labyrinthine cobblestone streets alone. Every footstep echoed. The colorful houses, their facades a canvas of blue, yellow, and pink against the grey sky, seemed to glow with an internal warmth. It’s on days like this you truly appreciate the defensive genius of the Moors who first built here; you feel the town’s history in the biting wind.

The main attraction is simply being there. But you must engage all your senses. The taste is non-negotiable: you are in Óbidos, you must drink Ginja de Óbidos. This is a sour cherry liqueur, sweet and potent, traditionally served in a small chocolate cup. My favorite spot is the tiny shop, ‘Ginja do Óbidos,’ run by a formidable older woman who has been pouring it for decades. The warmth of the liqueur spreading through your chest on a cold day is a feeling that can’t be replicated.

The sound of Óbidos in winter is the squeak of your own boots on slick cobbles and the howl of the wind over the castle ramparts. The sight is the breathtaking view from the top of the town walls. Walking the perimeter of the old city is a must-do. You’ll pass ancient turrets and cannons, and look down into the courtyards of people’s homes. You’ll see bare-branched trees and the stark beauty of the landscape beyond. It’s a romantic’s dream, a quiet, reflective walk that encourages holding hands.

For families, the town is a safe, enclosed playground of discovery. Kids love the story of the “Cistern” and the tiny, winding alleys. For foodies, the regional dishes are a treat. Try a hearty plate of leitão (suckling pig) or the local choco (cuttlefish), which is often at its best in the winter months when it’s richer and more flavorful.

Getting there: From Lisbon’s Oriente or Entrecampos station, take a CP train towards Figueira da Foz or Caldas da Rainha. Get off at the Bombarral station (about an hour’s journey, €7-€9). From Bombarral, a local taxi or an Uber is the easiest way into town (around €10-€15). The alternative is a bus from Lisbon’s Campo Grande station to Caldas da Rainha, then a local bus to Óbidos, but the train/taxi combo is faster and more pleasant. The total cost for the round trip is around €35-€45, making it a great option for romantic off-season day trips from Lisbon.

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The Windswept Dunes of Santo António

Let’s talk about the other end of the spectrum. Sometimes, you don’t want quaint; you want raw, untamed, and windswept. You want to feel like you’re at the end of the continent. For that, you head north, past the popular surf town of Ericeira, to the tiny parish of Santo António. This is where the land gives up and the Atlantic takes over. This is a perfect rainy day day trip from Lisbon near the coast if you're dressed for it.

Getting there is part of the adventure. From Lisbon’s Campo Grande station, you take the Mafra bus. The journey itself is a slice of local life, passing through the historic town of Mafra with its colossal palace, then winding through pine forests and small farming communities. It feels a million miles from the tourist trail. The bus drops you off near the main road, and from there, you walk towards the sound of the ocean.

When you crest the final dune and the beach reveals itself, it’s a shock to the system. This is not a gentle cove; it’s a vast, wild expanse of pale sand stretching for miles, backed by towering, sculpted dunes that shift with the wind. The waves are powerful, thunderous. In winter, the beach is often empty, save for a few hardy surfers and dog walkers. The sky feels enormous.

The sensory experience here is primal. The roar of the surf is constant, a white noise that washes away all thoughts. The wind is a physical presence, pushing against you, carrying the scent of salt and seaweed. The sand is coarse and gets into everything. On one memorable visit in February, the weather was a mix of brilliant sunshine and sudden, squalling rain showers. I watched as a storm front rolled in from the sea, turning the sky a bruised purple. I huddled under the shelter of a small sand dune, wrapped in my coat, and felt an incredible sense of being alive and small in the face of nature’s power.

This is the perfect trip for anyone needing to clear their head. It’s not for sunbathing; it’s for walking. Long, hard walks that leave you breathless and feeling cleansed. It’s fantastic for photographers, who can capture the dramatic, ever-changing light. For families, it’s a giant sandbox, though you must be vigilant about the powerful currents and keep children close. There are no facilities, so this is a bring-your-own-thermos-of-hot-soup-and-sandwich kind of place. The lack of infrastructure is its charm.

To get here: Take the Mafra bus (formerly Carris Metropolitana line 370, but verify the new operator) from the Campo Grande metro station. The ride takes about 50-60 minutes and costs a few euros. Be sure to check the return schedule before you leave, as services can be sparse in the afternoon. You’re aiming for the stop simply called “Santo António.” The total trip cost is well under €20, making it one of the most affordable and soul-stirring winter coastal escapes from Lisbon by train and bus.

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A Taste of the Wild Alentejo: Vila Nova de Milfontes

For those who want a bit of everything—coast, river, nature, and a charming town with great food—the trip south to Vila Nova de Milfontes is the ultimate off-season choice. It sits on the Alentejo coast, a region known for its cork oaks, rolling plains, and fiercely independent spirit. The town is wedged where the Mira river meets the Atlantic, creating a dynamic landscape of beaches, estuary, and protected natural park. This is one of those cheap off-season day trips from Lisbon under €50 that feels like a mini-vacation.

The journey is longer, about 2.5 hours, but it’s a beautiful one. The train ride south is meditative. You watch the urban sprawl of Lisbon give way to the golden, understated beauty of the Alentejo. Arriving in Vila Nova de Milfontes in the winter is a revelation. The town is sleepy, the beach is vast, and the air has a wild, herbaceous scent from the surrounding serra.

The main beach is a wide, sandy crescent protected by dramatic cliffs. In the winter, it’s a paradise for walkers. I once spent an entire afternoon just walking from the town, along the beach, and up the cliff path towards the lighthouse at the end of the peninsula. The views back over the village and the estuary were magnificent. The sea was a churning grey-green, and the only other life I saw was a lone fisherman casting a line from the rocks, his movements practiced and patient.

But the real secret of Milfontes is the other side of the river. You can take a small, free ferry (it runs less frequently in winter, so check) across the mouth of the Mira to the protected area of the Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina Natural Park. On the other side, you’re on a different planet. There are miles of untouched coastal paths, clifftop lookouts, and secluded coves. The landscape is raw and rugged, covered in aromatic rosemary, lavender, and the iconic cork trees. This is a hike for the soul.

The food here is a highlight. The Alentejo coast is famous for its seafood. In the winter, you must try percebes (goose barnacles). They look like prehistoric claws and taste like the pure essence of the ocean—briny, sweet, and incredibly fresh. Any small café overlooking the water will serve them simply boiled. Pair them with a glass of crisp local white wine from the Alentejo region, like an Antão Vaz. It’s a meal that will stay with you long after you’ve returned to Lisbon.

Getting there: The best way is by train and bus combo. Take a CP train from Lisbon’s Entrecampos to the town of São Luís (about 2 hours). From São Luís, you’ll take a local EVA bus to Vila Nova de Milfontes (about 30 minutes). The whole journey costs around €20-€25 each way. It’s a commitment, but the reward is a genuine taste of the wild, beautiful, and quiet Alentejo coast.

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A Glass of History in the Arrábida Vineyards

While the beaches of Arrábida get the glory, the mountain itself has a secret life: wine. The “Adega Cooperativa de Arrábida” is a testament to the region’s deep agricultural roots, a place where the local community has been turning the sun-drenched slopes into exceptional wine for generations. A visit here offers a different kind of escape—one that is warm, tippling, and deeply connected to the earth. This is one of the best off-season day trips from Lisbon to wineries.

I discovered this place on a whim. I had been to the beach, felt the chill, and was looking for a warmer refuge. A local in Setúbal told me, “Don’t just go to the beach. Go up the mountain and taste what it really gives.” So I did. The drive up the winding road into the Arrábida hills is spectacular, with breathtaking views back over the Sado estuary and the distant silhouette of Lisbon. The air grows cooler, scented with pine and the damp, earthy smell of the forest.

The cooperative itself is a no-frills, functional building, a working winery, not a polished, architect-designed tourist center. And that’s its beauty. You feel like you’re seeing the real thing. You can arrange a tour (in Portuguese, but the passion is universal) or simply visit the shop for a tasting. The staff are local, often family members of the growers, and their pride in the wine is palpable.

The star here is the Moscatel de Setúbal. This is a rich, sweet, fortified wine with intense aromas of orange blossom, tangerine, and honey. It’s a wine that warms you from the inside out. On a cold day, tasting it while looking out at the grey-green slopes of the mountain it came from is a profound experience. They also produce excellent dry reds and whites from local grape varieties like Castelão and Fernão Pires. A tasting flight is incredibly affordable, often just €5-€10, and you get to try several high-quality wines. It’s the perfect example of a cheap off-season day trip that feels luxurious.

This is a fantastic option for couples looking for a romantic, sophisticated afternoon or for small groups of friends who want to do something a little different. It’s less of a “family” activity unless your kids are very patient, but for oenophiles, it’s a pilgrimage.

Getting there: The first step is the train from Lisbon to Setúbal. From Setúbal, it’s easiest with a taxi or Uber (about €15-€20) to the winery. You could theoretically try to find a local bus heading up the mountain, but they are infrequent and not well-suited for a day trip. The taxi ride is part of the experience, offering those stunning views. Combine this with a quick trip to Portinho da Arrábida or a walk through Setúbal’s old town for a perfect day. Total cost, including train and taxi split between friends, is easily kept under €50 per person.

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The Forgotten City of Conímbriga

For a truly profound journey into the past, away from the medieval castles and into the Roman empire, there is no better place than Conímbriga. It is one of the most important and best-preserved Roman archaeological sites in Portugal, and in the off-season, it becomes an open-air museum where you can wander alone amongst two millennia of history. It’s a history lesson you can feel under your feet.

Located near the city of Coimbra, the journey north is a comfortable and scenic train ride. Leaving Lisbon’s urban energy, you travel through the green, rolling hills of the Ribatejo and Beira Litoral. It’s a reminder of Portugal’s agricultural heartland. Arriving at the small station of Conímbriga, you are immediately in a different world—a quiet, rural landscape belying the splendor hidden just a short walk away.

The sheer scale of Conímbriga is breathtaking. You walk through the foundations of an entire Roman city—streets, houses, shops, and public baths. The highlight is the stunning mosaics. Because there are far fewer visitors in the winter, you can get incredibly close to these intricate works of art, depicting mythological scenes, geometric patterns, and scenes of daily life. The colors are still vibrant. I stood for a good twenty minutes in the House of Fountains, completely alone, just staring at the floor. The silence was so deep I could hear the wind rustling the dry grass outside, and it felt like the Romans had just stepped out for a moment.

The contrast of the Roman ruins with the defensive walls and turrets of a later medieval castle, which sits on the same grounds, tells a powerful story of conquest and time. The on-site museum is excellent and provides crucial context, but the real magic is outside, in the quiet of the ruins. The winter sun, low in the sky, casts long, dramatic shadows from the columns and walls, making it a photographer’s dream. For families, it’s a fantastic, safe place for kids to run and explore, turning history into an adventure. For anyone with a romantic or historical soul, it’s a deeply moving experience.

Getting there: Take a CP train from Lisbon’s Oriente or Entrecampos station to the town of Condeixa-a-Nova (about 2 hours, €12-€15). From the Condeixa-a-Nova train station, it’s a pleasant 30-minute walk to the ruins (follow the signs for “Conímbriga”) or a very short and inexpensive taxi ride (€5-€8). You can easily spend 2-3 hours exploring the site. The total trip cost is well under €40.