The morning air in Setúbal carries a specific kind of magic, one that smells of sun-baked earth, wild rosemary, and the distant, salty breath of the Mediterranean. It’s a scent that has anchored my career as a travel and food writer for over a decade, a sensory compass that always seems to point me back south of Lisbon, back to the warm, familial embrace of the José Maria da Fonseca (JMdF) winery.
To write about the 2026 vintage is not just to catalogue grapes and sugar levels; it is to write about a promise kept, a harvest born of sweat and hope, and the liquid story of a family that has been pouring its soul into this land since 1834.
I remember my first visit years ago. I was younger, perhaps a little arrogant, armed with a notebook and the critical palate of a journalist. I expected a factory, a monument to commerce. Instead, I found a sprawling, sun-drenched family home, where the line between the living quarters and the cellars blurred, and the patriarch, Domingos José de Sousa, would eventually wander out, not with a spreadsheet, but with a dusty bottle and a story for every vintage. It is from that perspective—the one that sees wine as a conversation between people and place—that I want to guide you through the extraordinary, almost clairvoyant, 2026 vintage.
This isn't just another year. In the world of Portuguese wine, 2026 is shaping up to be a legendary vintage, a year of startling precision and elegance that has sent ripples of excitement from the sun-bleached terraces of the Alentejo to the granitic slopes of the Douro. For José Maria da Fonseca, the custodians of the iconic Castelão and Moscatel Galego, this vintage represents a masterclass in balance. It’s the year the vines, tested by the extremes of our changing climate, offered up a treasure of profound concentration and nerve. We are going to dive deep into the soul of these wines, exploring their tasting notes, their price points, and the exact moment you should be seeking them out. This is your definitive guide to the 2026 collection from one of Portugal’s most beloved institutions.
The Harbinger: A Walk Through the Vineyards of 2026
To understand the wine, you must understand the year. The 2026 growing season in the Setúbal Peninsula and Alentejo was a drama in three acts. It began with a wet, mild winter, which allowed the soils to drink deep and replenish their water reserves—a crucial factor that would define the wines’ stamina in the summer ahead.
Spring arrived with a flourish, a generous flowering that promised a bountiful crop, but also a nervous tension. The threat of frost, always a specter in the vineyards of Portugal, danced around the edges of the season, but JMdF’s meticulous vineyard management saw the delicate buds safe.
Then came the summer. It was not the scorching, relentless furnace of 2022, but a more classical, structured heat. Long, sunny days were punctuated by cool Atlantic breezes that swept inland at night, a natural air-conditioning that preserved the grapes' precious acidity and aromatic freshness. This diurnal shift—the temperature swing between day and night—is the secret weapon of this vintage. It is what allowed the grapes to achieve full phenolic ripeness, developing complex flavors of black fruit and spice, without shedding their structural backbone.
The harvest, which typically begins in late August for whites and early September for reds, was a race against time, but a controlled one. The grapes were healthy, thick-skinned, and bursting with concentrated juice. The cellar team, led by the ever-passionate winemakers, knew they had something special on their hands. They were picking jewels, and they handled them with the reverence they deserved.
The Red that Sings of Setúbal: Periquita 2026
There is no wine more synonymous with José Maria da Fonseca than Periquita. For decades, this wine has been a gateway drug to Portuguese reds for drinkers around the world, a friendly, unassuming bottle that hides a surprising depth. The 2026 Periquita is, in my humble opinion, the greatest of this generation. It is a wine that has finally grown into its potential, a perfect expression of the Castelão grape.
Food Pairing: This is a versatile chameleon. Its bright acidity and fruit-forward profile make it a perfect partner for grilled sardines with a squeeze of lemon, a classic Portuguese prego (beef sandwich) on a crusty roll, or a simple bowl of pasta with a tomato and basil sauce. It’s a wine that begs for the table, not the tasting counter.
The White Revelation: D. Maria II 2026
For years, Portuguese whites were often overlooked, overshadowed by the country’s powerful reds. That has changed, and JMdF is leading the charge. Their D. Maria II white, a blend of Arinto and Fernão Pires, is a testament to the elegance possible in this sun-drenched land.
Food Pairing: This wine was born to be paired with the sea. Think grilled octopus with olive oil and pimentón, raw oysters with a mignonette, or a delicate sole meunière. It would also be a stunning match for a fresh goat cheese salad with walnuts and a light vinaigrette.
The Sommelier’s Secret: Sommelier Selection 2026
If you want to understand the true ambition of José Maria da Fonseca, you must seek out their Sommelier Selection. This is not a wine for the masses; it is a statement piece, a limited-production wine crafted from the estate's oldest vineyards and designed to age gracefully for a decade or more.
A Tale of Two Vintages: 2026 vs. 2025
It’s always instructive to compare a new vintage with its predecessor. The 2025 vintage for JMdF was a warmer, more forward style. It is delicious now, a crowd-pleaser that is all about immediate gratification. The 2025 Periquita, for instance, is rounder and jammier than the 2026.
The 2026 vintage, by contrast, is more classical, more chiseled. There is a tension and an energy in the 2026 wines that the 2025s lack. The 2026 is a firm, confident handshake, while the 2025 is a warm hug. Both are excellent, but the 2026 is, in my opinion, the more complete and age-worthy vintage.
How to Buy Jose Maria da Fonseca 2026 & Visiting
The 2026 vintage will begin to trickle into the market in the spring of 2027. The easiest way to secure these wines is through reputable online wine merchants. Websites like Wine-Searcher are invaluable for finding stockists in your country. Look for trusted importers who specialize in Portuguese wine.
Visiting the Winery
To truly connect with these wines, you must visit. The winery is located at Quinta da Alto, Setúbal.
Address: Estrada de Alcube, 2950-221 Setúbal, Portugal
Hours: Monday - Friday, 10:00 AM - 12:30 PM and 2:00 PM - 5:30 PM; Saturday, 10:00 AM - 1:00 PM.
(Booking in advance is essential).
Conclusion: A Vintage for the Soul
In a world of ever-increasing wine prices and homogenized styles, the 2026 vintage from José Maria da Fonseca feels like a profound gift. It is a collection of wines that are not only delicious and complex but also honest and true to their origin. They are a reflection of a family’s dedication, a land’s generosity, and a year of near-perfect conditions.
To open a bottle of the 2026 Periquita is to taste the sunshine and the sea breeze of Setúbal. To cellar a bottle of the Sommelier Selection is to place a bet on the future, one that is almost certain to pay off in layers of flavor and emotion. The 2026 José Maria da Fonseca wines are not just a purchase; they are an experience, a memory waiting to be made.