Explore Mafra Palace and Ericeira Hidden Gems: A Day Tour from Lisbon
The salt on your lips tastes different here. It’s not the aggressive, sharp brine of the open Atlantic; it’s softer, somehow, carrying the faintest whisper of wild fennel and sun-warmed stone. I was standing on the ramparts of the Fort of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception in Ericeira, looking out over the slate-blue water, and it struck me how seamlessly the story of Portugal flows from the gilded interiors of its royal palaces to the rugged, wind-battered lives of its fishermen.
Most travelers visiting Lisbon stick to the city’s well-worn path: the yellow trams, the melancholic Fado houses, the custard tarts. But if you venture just forty minutes north, you find a different rhythm. You find Mafra, a town defined by the sheer, impossible scale of its 18th-century palace, and Ericeira, a fishing village that clings to the cliffs like a stubborn barnacle. Combining these two into a single day isn’t just a road trip; it’s a study in contrasts. It’s the story of how a King lived versus how a fisherman eats. And I promise you, both are worth your time.
This is the story of my refined route, a journey of marble, stone, and seafood designed for those looking to explore Mafra Palace and Ericeira hidden gems.
The Morning: The Versailles of the Ocean
We left Lisbon around 9:00 AM, escaping the city’s morning rush before it fully choked the arteries of the A9 motorway. There is a specific joy in watching the urban sprawl dissolve into manicured cork oaks and pine forests. By 9:45 AM, the silhouette of the Mafra National Palace (Palácio Nacional de Mafra) began to dominate the horizon.
Most people see pictures of the palace and think, "That’s nice, a big building." But pictures lie. They flatten the sheer audacity of this place. Commissioned by King João V in 1717, this wasn't just a residence; it was a political statement, a flex of absolute power and wealth funded by Brazilian gold. It is a Baroque monster, a slab of white stone with 1,200 rooms, more than enough to swallow St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome whole.
- Address: Largo do Palácio, 2640-316 Mafra, Portugal
- Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM (Last entry 5:30 PM). Closed Mondays.
- Tip: Access to the Basilica and Convent is often separate; check ticket combinations for a complete private day tour from Lisbon to Mafra.
I parked the car near the main square, dominated by the twin towers of the Basilica. The air here is crisp, inland, smelling of dust and history. Walking toward the entrance, the scale begins to press down on you. The façade is a relentless parade of statues—kings, saints, heroes—all staring blankly at the town.
The Hidden Secrets and Architecture
Don’t rush to the main gates. First, walk around the perimeter. The south facade, where the building feels most lived-in. Once inside, the standard route takes you through the King and Queen’s apartments. The opulence is blinding—Venetian mirrors, Chinese silk wallpapers, ceilings that seem to dissolve into painted heavens. It is beautiful, but it is also standard "palace fare."
The real magic, the hidden gem of the Mafra Palace history tour, is the Convent wing and the Library. The Library is a masterpiece of silence. It houses over 36,000 volumes, bound in gilt leather and arranged in dark wood shelves. The floor is a geometric pattern of wood that creaks satisfyingly underfoot. It feels like a place where time has been put on pause.
But the true secret? The Basilica. The ticket usually includes it. Inside, the Portuguese saying "To eat well, to sleep well, and to confess well" comes to mind. The acoustics are engineered to perfection. If you stand in the exact center of the nave and clap, the sound doesn’t echo; it hums. The pipe organ here, by Joaquim Peres Fontanes, is one of the most important historical instruments in the world. It’s massive—two of them, facing each other like warring titans. They don’t play it often, but if you are lucky enough to catch a demonstration (usually on weekends), the vibration goes straight into your bones.
Before leaving Mafra, take a moment in the Jardim do Palácio. It’s a formal, French-style garden that offers a respite from the grandeur. It’s quiet, smelling of boxwood and roses.
The Transition: The Road to the Edge of the World
From Mafra, the drive to Ericeira is short—about 15 minutes—but the landscape changes dramatically. You leave the flat plains and begin to climb. The roads narrow, twisting through the Reserva Natural do Paul do Boquilobo. It’s a protected wetland area, but for the driver, it’s a visual shift from gold to green.
As you approach Ericeira, the smell hits you before the sea does. It’s the smell of salt, drying fish, and diesel from the fishing boats. The town is built on a promontory that drops sharply into the water. It’s the only European fishing port classified as a World Surfing Reserve, a title it wears with pride.
- Address: Ericeira, 2655-228, Portugal
- Vibe: Gritty, authentic fishing village mixed with surf culture.
- Best for: Ericeira seafood lunch and coastal walks.
The Afternoon: Fado, Fish, and the Fear of Heights
Parking in Ericeira can be a competitive sport. I usually park in the Largo da Rainha Dona Maria II (the main square) and walk down. The walk down is steep, but the walk back up will burn off the calories you’re about to consume.
The center of town is a maze of white and yellow houses with blue trimmings. The shutters are always painted the same shade of "Portuguese blue," a color that vibrates against the white plaster. Walking through the Rua dos Pescadores (Fishermen’s Street), you are shoulder-to-shoulder with locals. It doesn’t feel sanitized for tourists; it feels gritty and authentic.
The Lunch Ritual
You cannot come to Ericeira and not eat seafood. It is a crime. But we aren't looking for the tourist traps on the main drag. We are looking for fresh catch. For years, I swore by a tiny place called O Pescador or the slightly more upscale O Santo. But the absolute essential stop for the vibe is Praia dos Pescadores (Fishermen’s Beach).
It’s a small, golden strip of sand tucked between high cliffs. The restaurants here, specifically "O Pescador" (Av. Humberto Delgado), have tables set right on the sand. The experience is visceral. You hear the waves crashing against the rocks while seagulls scream overhead. The tables are plastic, the wine comes in a carafe, and the food is magnificent.
I ordered the Arroz de Marisco (Seafood Rice). It arrived in a cataplana, steaming and smelling of saffron and ocean. The rice was slightly al dente, soaked in a broth rich with clams, crab, and prawn. The secret to this dish is the açorda—bread thickening the broth. It’s rustic, messy, and perfect. As I ate, a fishing boat maneuvered into the small cove, nets dripping, reminding me that this meal was caught just hours ago.
The Hidden Gems: Walking the Edge
After lunch, the heat of the day usually settles in. This is the time for a walk, specifically to the Fort of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, often simply called the "Forte." It sits at the far western tip of the town, a squat, granite fortress that looks like it’s barely holding on against the wind.
The walk there takes you past the Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Orada, a small, lonely chapel that is the subject of many a Portuguese postcard. The path to the Fort is paved but uneven. As you get closer, the wind picks up. I remember my first time there; I had to lean into the wind just to stay upright. It felt elemental.
- Hidden Gem Alert
- Location: R. da Misericórdia, 2655-202 Ericeira.
- View: Look west for the Atlantic, left for the Pedra da Ovelha (Sheep Rock).
- Activity: Walk down to Praia do Sul for rock pooling.
Sitting on the cannon mounts of the Fort, looking west, you see the Atlantic stretching out, endless and grey-blue. To the left, the massive rock formation of the Pedra da Ovelha (Sheep Rock) stands guard. This is the spot to feel small. It’s a place of introspection. The crashing waves here are constant, a white noise that washes away the stress of the city.
If you still have energy, walk down the steps to Praia do Sul. It’s a wild beach, not for swimming due to the currents, but for walking. The rock pools here are teeming with life—crabs, starfish, anemones. It’s a natural aquarium.
The Late Afternoon: The View from the Top
Before leaving Ericeira, there is one final stop that most day-trippers miss because they are too full of seafood or tired from walking. You need to drive (or hike, if you are very fit) up to the Miradouro da Praia do Sul or, even better, the Miradouro da Foz do Lisandro.
The drive up is steep and narrow. You pass through neighborhoods of luxury villas that contrast sharply with the humble fishermen's cottages below. The viewpoint offers a panoramic sweep of the coastline. You can see the town nestled in the cove, the line of surfers waiting for waves, and the horizon where the sun begins its descent.
I usually buy a coffee and a travesseiro (a pillow-shaped almond pastry) from a local bakery and sit on the wall here. The travesseiro is dusted with sugar that melts instantly on your tongue, the almond paste sweet and dense. It’s the perfect fuel for the drive back to Lisbon.
The Return: Reflections on Gold and Stone
The drive back to Lisbon is usually quieter. The sun sets behind you, casting long shadows over the pine forests. As the city lights begin to twinkle in the distance, your mind drifts back to the day.
"You’ve stood in a room that cost a fortune to decorate, a room designed to prove that a King was like a God. You’ve walked the halls where history was written in treaties and marriages. Then, you’ve sat on a plastic chair on the sand, eating food that was pulled from the sea by men risking their lives daily, listening to the sound of the waves that have no master."
The contrast is what makes this tour so special. Mafra is about the imposition of man’s will upon nature. Ericeira is about the surrender to nature. One is built of marble imported from Italy; the other of granite found on the spot.
If you are planning this affordable day trip to Mafra and Ericeira from Lisbon in 2026, do it with that duality in mind. Don't rush. In Mafra, stand in the library and listen to the silence. In Ericeira, wait for the fishermen to unload their catch. Ask questions. Eat with your hands.
This isn't just a checklist of sights. It’s a day spent oscillating between the grandest of human ambitions and the simplest, most profound necessities of life: a warm meal, a safe harbor, and a beautiful view. And that, my friend, is the best way to experience Portugal.