Ericeira Surfing Beaches Near Mafra: Top Spots & Tips

There is a specific kind of golden light that exists only in the Portuguese countryside just before you hit the coast. It filters through the cork oaks and olive trees as you drive west from Mafra, smelling of dust, pine, and the faintest promise of salt. If you are driving from the historic town of Mafra towards the Atlantic, the transition is palpable. You leave behind the geometric precision of the massive Palace and the quiet grid of the town, climbing slightly before the land begins to roll and break apart into cliffs. You are heading toward Ericeira, the only World Surfing Reserve in Europe. But the question often isn’t just "Where is Ericeira?" but rather, "Which beaches are actually close to Mafra, and which ones are worth the drive?"

As someone who has spent over a decade chasing swells along this stretch of Iberian coastline, I can tell you that the area between Mafra and Ericeira is a goldmine for surfers. It is a corridor of distinct micro-climates. Five minutes can mean the difference between a playful waist-high wave and a heaving barrel that demands your absolute respect. Whether you are a goofy-footer looking for a peeling right-hander or a beginner hoping to finally stand up on a soft-top, the beaches near Mafra offer a diversity that rivals coastlines twice the size.

This isn't just a list; it’s a guide to navigating the waters, the roads, and the local etiquette of one of Portugal’s most treasured surf zones.

The Lay of the Land: Mafra to Ericeira

Before we dive into the specific breaks, let’s talk about the geography, because it dictates the waves. When you are in Mafra (N247-1), you are roughly 15 to 20 kilometers (about 9-12 miles) from the heart of Ericeira. However, the "beaches near Mafra" usually refers to the northern stretch of the Ericeira municipality, specifically the areas of Foz do Lizandro and the beaches immediately north of the town center.

The drive is simple but scenic. You take the N9 heading west (or the A21 motorway if you want speed, exiting towards Ericeira). As you descend the hill towards the sea, the geography splits into two distinct zones: the sandy beaches of the south and the rocky, reef-breaking points of the north. Knowing which zone you are entering determines your board choice and your wetsuit thickness.

Top Spots: The Northern Reach (Closest to Mafra)

If you are coming from Mafra, these are your first stops. You will hit them before you even reach the winding, famous roads of central Ericeira.

1. Praia do Foz do Lizandro

The Experience:
Praia do Foz do Lizandro is the gateway drug of Ericeira surfing. It sits right where the Lizandro River meets the Atlantic, just a few kilometers north of the Mafra border. I remember my first time here vividly. It was a Tuesday in late July, the air thick with humidity. I parked my car in the large, paved lot (a luxury in Portugal, where beach parking is often a chaotic game of chicken) and walked down the wooden boardwalk.

The beach is wide, expansive, and backed by dunes. The water here is generally friendlier than the spots further north. The wave breaks primarily on sand, though there are some rock formations to watch out for. It is a magnet for surf schools. If you are a beginner, this is your spot. The waves are consistent, rolling in lines of white water that are perfect for learning to duck dive or just paddle out without getting thrashed.

However, don't let the "beginner" label fool you. On a big winter swell, Foz can get punchy. I’ve seen local rippers snapping shortboards off the outer sandbar, scoring hollow, fast sections. For the traveler coming from Mafra, the vibe here is relaxed. There is a beach bar right at the top of the boardwalk that serves decent coffee and toasted sandwiches. The sunsets here are spectacular, casting a purple hue over the water as the river flows gently to the sea.

Surf Tip: Watch the currents. Because of the river outlet, the water can push you down the beach if you aren't paying attention. If you get tired, just ride the whitewater all the way to the sand, dry off, and grab a bifana (pork sandwich) from the kiosk.

2. Praia de São Lourenço

The Experience:
Continuing north from Foz, you pass the exclusive resort of Vale do Lobo and descend a winding road that hugs the cliffside. This is Praia de São Lourenço. The setting is dramatic. A 17th-century fort sits on the eastern headland, guarding the entrance to the bay. The beach is flanked by steep, reddish cliffs.

This is a spot that requires a bit more ocean knowledge. The wave here is a mix of sand and rock. It breaks mostly as a left-hander (if you are regular-footed, this is a dream). When the swell is angled correctly from the west-northwest, São Lourenço produces long, fast walls. I recall a session here in October where the wind was howling onshore everywhere else, but this cove was sheltered, perfectly glassy. It was one of those days where you paddle into a wave, stand up, and realize the face is twice as big as it looked from the lineup.

The beach itself is beautiful but narrow. There isn't much sand between the water and the cliffs, so it feels intimate and enclosed. It’s a favorite spot for local families who know the safe entry points, but for surfers, it’s a serious wave.

Surf Tip: This beach has a strong rip current, especially near the rocks on the right side of the bay (if facing the ocean). If you aren't confident in your swimming, stick to the middle section. Also, parking is limited to the side of the road on the cliff, so arrive early on weekends.

3. Praia dos Pescadores (Fisherman’s Beach)

The Experience:
You cannot talk about surfing near Mafra without mentioning Praia dos Pescadores. Technically, this is in Ericeira town, but it is the visual endpoint of the drive from Mafra. It is the "postcard" beach. The sand is golden, the water is turquoise, and the whitewashed houses of the old town loom above it.

This is a versatile wave. In the summer, it is a gentle, rolling beach break perfect for longboarding. In the winter, the sandbars shift, and it can become a heavy, close-out shorebreak. I have spent many December afternoons here watching the storm waves detonate on the sand, the spray reaching the promenade.

But the real magic of Pescadores isn't just the surfing; it's the culture. The name "Fisherman's Beach" is literal. Every morning, the local fishermen drag their traditional wooden boats up the sand. If you surf here, you have to respect that this is their workplace. I once saw a surfer get yelled at by an old man in a yellow raincoat because he dropped in on a wave right where the boats were being launched. It’s a humbling reminder that you are a guest.

Surf Tip: Park in the large lot near the beach (paid parking) or find street parking up in the town (scarce). After your session, walk up the stairs to the cliff-top bars for a Super Bock beer and watch the sunset. It is one of the best views in Portugal.

The Reef Breaks: The Heart of Ericeira

If you have a few days and want to challenge yourself, you need to push past the town center to the northern reef breaks. These are world-class waves.

4. Ribeira d’Ilhas

The Experience:
Ribeira d’Ilhas is perhaps the most famous wave in Ericeira. It is a long, winding point break that wraps around a rocky point. When the swell is small, it is a longboarder's paradise—slow, peeling walls that allow you to walk the nose and throw buckets of water. When the swell is big, it turns into a high-performance playground.

I remember paddling out here during a massive swell in November. The waves were 12 to 15 feet, peeling perfectly. The water turned a dark, menacing slate grey. The local surfers were taking off in impossible spots, disappearing down the face, and coming screaming out of the barrel. I sat on the shoulder, humbled, just watching the spectacle.

The beach is stunning. It’s a cove of soft sand backed by green hills. There are a few cafes and a surf school right at the top of the stairs. It gets crowded, there is no denying that. This is the "main stage." But the crowd is part of the energy. The jockeying for position, the hoots when someone gets a good one—it’s a surf theater.

Surf Tip: Don't paddle out if you aren't ready for a workout. The current can be strong, and you’ll spend a lot of time paddling back up the point. If you are a beginner, stick to the very inside section where the whitewater breaks, or go to Foz do Lizandro instead.

5. Coxos (Praia do Coxos)

The Experience:
Just north of Ribeira d’Ilhas, hidden behind a cliff, is Coxos. "Coxos" means "shins," and it is named for the sharp rocks that litter the entry and exit. This is a serious wave. It is a reef break that breaks over a shallow rock shelf.

When it’s on, Coxos offers some of the best barrels in Europe. It is fast, hollow, and dangerous. I have surfed Coxos maybe a dozen times in ten years. Most of those times, I walked away with bruises on my shins from the rocks. But the one time I caught a perfect three-barrel ride in chest-high glassy water, I think about it at least once a week.

The vibe here is intense. It is not a place for beach chairs and umbrellas. It is a place for surfing. You park on a dirt patch, scramble down a steep trail, and jump into the water. The locals here are very, very good. If you are visiting from Mafra and you have to ask "Is Coxos good today?", then it’s probably not for you. You will know.

Surf Tip: Booties are highly recommended. The rocks are slippery and sharp. Also, time your exit. If you get caught inside on a big set, you will get pummeled against the reef. Wait for a lull, swim wide, and climb the cliff carefully.

Practical Tips for the Mafra-Based Surfer

Getting There and Parking

If you are staying in Mafra, driving is the best option. The roads are well-paved. However, parking at the popular beaches (Ribeira d’Ilhas and Pescadores) becomes a war zone between 10:00 AM and 4:00 PM in the summer.

My Strategy: Wake up early. Be in the water by 7:30 AM. You will have the waves to yourself, and you will find parking easily. If you go mid-day, park in the town of Ericeira (there are multi-story car parks) and walk down, or use the seasonal shuttle buses that run between beaches.

Equipment and Rentals

You don't need to bring your quiver from Mafra if you don't have one.

• Foz do Lizandro: Several surf schools rent soft-tops and foam boards. Great for beginners.
• Ericeira Town (near Pescadores): You have high-performance rentals. You can grab a Firewire or a Channel Islands shortboard for the day.
• Ribeira d’Ilhas: There are rental shacks right at the beach, but the quality varies. Inspect the boards for dings before you pay.

Wetsuits and Water Temp

The Atlantic is cold. Even in August, the water hovers around 18-19°C (65°F). In the winter, it drops to 13-14°C (56°F).

• Summer: A 3/2mm full suit is usually enough, though some locals go vest-only.
• Autumn/Spring: A 4/3mm is essential.
• Winter: 5/4mm with a hood, booties, and gloves. Don't mess around with hypothermia.

The "Mafra Connection" - Where to Eat

After a session, the hunger hits hard. If you are driving back to Mafra, you have options, but I highly recommend eating in Ericeira first.

• For the Surfer: O Pescador (near the beach). It’s a sit-down place that serves generous plates of grilled fish. It’s not fancy, but it’s honest.
• For the Quick Fix: Padaria Ribeira d’Ilhas. Right at the top of the stairs. They sell pastéis de natas (custard tarts) that are still warm from the oven. Grab two and a coffee.
• The Mafra Route: If you are heading back to Mafra late, stop at a Churrasqueira (grill house) in the town center. The smell of charcoal and chicken is everywhere. It’s the perfect end to a day of dodging waves.

Final Thoughts: The Rhythm of the Coast

The magic of surfing the beaches near Mafra is in the variety. You can start your morning watching the sunrise at Foz do Lizandro, catching soft, mellow waves, and then drive twenty minutes north to throw yourself into the chaos of Coxos or the elegance of Ribeira d’Ilhas.

There is a rhythm to this coast. It’s in the way the fishermen drag their boats at dawn, the way the gulls circle the peaks, and the way the wind drops at sunset, turning the ocean to glass. Whether you are a local from Mafra or a traveler passing through, these waters welcome you. Just remember to respect the ocean, respect the locals, and always, always watch the sets rolling in before you paddle out.

The waves are waiting. And that drive from Mafra, with the windows down and the salt air rushing in, is the best part of the ride.