Berlengas Snorkeling: Secret Spots & Clear Waters Guide

There is a specific memory I cling to from my first trip to the Berlengas. It wasn’t the dramatic approach of the island rising from the Atlantic, nor the history of the fortress standing guard over the horizon. It was the silence. Not the absence of sound—the roar of the ocean is never silent—but the specific, muffled quiet that happens only when you slide your head beneath the surface of the Atlantic.

I was floating off the eastern side of the island, near the small, sheltered coves that most day-trippers ignore in their rush to climb the ramparts of the Fort of São João Baptista. The water was 18 degrees Celsius, a temperature that makes your lungs gasp for a second before your body acclimates. But once that shock passed, I opened my eyes. I wasn't just seeing fish; I was seeing a world that felt closer to the bottom of a kaleidoscope than the coast of Portugal.

For years, the Berlengas—the small archipelago sitting about 10 kilometers off the coast of Peniche—have been overshadowed by their rugged reputation. They are a biosphere reserve, a UNESCO-protected haven for seabirds, and the jagged teeth of the Atlantic that have sunk many a ship. But for the snorkeler, this isolation is a gift. It offers some of the clearest, most vibrant waters in mainland Europe, provided you know how to approach them.

If you are looking for the standard tourist guide, you won’t find it here. This is a guide to the underwater life, the secret grottos, and the logistical hurdles of one of Portugal’s most rewarding aquatic adventures.

The Approach: From Peniche to the Edge of the World

You cannot simply drive to the Berlengas. You must earn them. The journey begins in the fishing town of Peniche, a place defined by the smell of diesel, sardines, and the Atlantic wind. Peniche is a fortress of granite and surf, famous for its waves and its textile history. But for us, it is the gateway.

There are two ways to get to the islands: the public ferry or a private boat charter. If you are serious about snorkeling, I urge you toward the charter, specifically the smaller RIB (Rigid Inflatable Boat) tours that leave from the Peniche harbor. The public ferry is cheaper, yes, but it is designed for sightseeing. It drops you at the main pier, and you are left to navigate the crowds and the rocky shoreline with your gear.

The RIB tours, however, are designed for movement. They hug the coastline, slipping into the hidden coves that the large boats cannot reach. This is crucial because the best snorkeling isn't at the main beach (Praia do Farilhão); it is in the cracks and fissures of the island's perimeter.

The Water Conditions: Clarity and Cold

Let’s talk about the Atlantic, because it dictates everything. Unlike the Mediterranean, which is often a warm, hazy bath, the Berlengas water is crisp, deep, and shockingly clear. This clarity is due to the strong currents and the depth of the water around the island. There is very much sediment settling on the bottom; the water is pure ocean.

However, this brings us to a hard truth: visibility is king, but temperature is the gatekeeper. The water here never gets truly warm. In July and August, it hovers around 19°C to 20°C (66°F-68°F). In the shoulder seasons, it drops lower. To enjoy Berlengas snorkeling, you need a 3mm or 5mm wetsuit. I have seen too many tourists with rental masks and a rash guard shivering uncontrollably after five minutes, their teeth chattering as they retreat to the shore. Don’t be that person. The wetsuit isn't just for warmth; it provides buoyancy that lets you float effortlessly over the reefs, conserving energy and allowing you to focus on the view.

The Secret Spots: Where to Look

This is the heart of the matter. Where do you actually go? The island is small, roughly 1.5 kilometers long, but its underwater topography is complex.

1. The Eastern Cove (The "Aquarium")

Just around the corner from the main landing point, the eastern side offers a shallow, rocky shelf that drops off gently into a sandy bottom. This is the best spot for beginners. The rocks are covered in kelp forests that sway in the surge, acting as a nursery for fish. The water here is usually calmer because it is protected from the prevailing westerly winds. Look for the "bodião" (wrasses) in vibrant electric blues and oranges, hiding in the eelgrass. If you are lucky, you might spot a seahorse clinging to a stem. It feels less like swimming in the ocean and more like drifting through a massive, open-air aquarium.

2. The North-West Grottos

This is for the more confident swimmer. As you round the northern tip, the seabed becomes rockier, featuring large boulders piled on top of one another. This creates swim-throughs—natural arches carved by millennia of waves. Squeeze through a narrow gap and you emerge into a "cavern" where the sunlight filters down from above, illuminating the water in shafts of green and gold. Here, the fish are different. You are entering the domain of the larger pelagic species. I have floated here and felt the shadow of a barracuda pass beneath me, its silver flank flashing like a mirror. It is exhilarating, not dangerous, provided you keep your movements smooth.

3. The South Side (Facing the Fortress)

This is where the water is clearest, but the surge is strongest. The waves crash against the fortress walls, sending plumes of spray high into the air. Underwater, this agitation oxygenates the water and brings in the nutrients. This attracts the "garoupa" (grouper) and the elusive "cherne" (wreckfish). These are big, heavy fish that hang around the deep crevices, watching you with a stoic, ancient gaze. If you want to see the "big" marine life, this is where you drift.

The Marine Life: A Guide to What You’ll See

Berlengas is a marine reserve, meaning fishing is strictly regulated. As a result, the fish have no fear of humans. They will swim within inches of your mask. This is a privilege, and one we must respect.

• The Chromis (Chromis chromis): Small, iridescent blue dots that form massive schools. They look like a swarm of blue neon lights.
• The Wrasse (Bodianus scrofa): Known locally as "Bodião," these are the guardians of the reef. They are curious, colorful, and will often follow you.
• The John Dory (Zeus faber): A flat, spiny fish that is masters of camouflage. You will likely mistake it for a piece of floating seaweed until it moves.
• Stingrays: In the sandy patches between the rocks, you might see a stingray gliding along the bottom, looking like a flapping blanket. They are harmless if you give them space.

What you won't see are the tropical clownfish or parrotfish of the Red Sea or the Maldives. This is a temperate ecosystem. It is rugged, subtle, and rewards the patient eye.

The Logistics: Gear and Rules

The Berlengas Natural Reserve is heavily protected. The rules are simple, but fines for breaking them are steep.

• No touching: Do not touch the rocks, the coral, or the marine life. The oils on your skin can damage the ecosystem, and the rocks are razor-sharp.
• No collecting: Shells, stones, and sand must stay where they are.
• No anchors: If you are on a private boat, you must use the designated mooring buoys.

Where do you get the gear? You have two options.

Option A: Rent in Peniche. There are dive shops in Peniche that rent full snorkeling sets (mask, snorkel, fins, and wetsuit).

Option B: Bring your own. If you are a frequent snorkeler, bring your own mask. The rental masks in Portugal often have low-quality silicone that doesn't seal well on the face.

The Best Time: Timing the Atlantic

There is never a "bad" time to snorkel in Berlengas, but there is a "wrong" time. The weather here changes hourly.

• June to September: This is the window. The winds (the notorious "Nortada") are generally milder, the sun is stronger, and the water is at its warmest. July and August are peak season; the island gets crowded with tourists, but the water remains crystal clear.
• September: My personal favorite. The water has accumulated heat all summer, reaching its maximum temperature. The summer crowds have dispersed, leaving you with a sense of ownership over the island.
• Tides: You want a slack tide or an incoming tide for snorkeling. When the tide is rushing out (ebb tide), the currents can be strong, pulling you away from the rocks. Ask your boat captain; they know the tides by heart.

A Beginner’s Guide to Berlengas Snorkeling

If you have never snorkeled before, the Berlengas can be intimidating. But it is actually a fantastic place to learn, provided you take a guided tour.

1. Master the Clearing: You will get water in your mask. It is inevitable. Practice clearing your mask (blowing air out of your nose while pressing the top of the mask) before you go. Panic sets in when you don't know how to clear your vision.
2. The Snorkel Bite: Don't bite down hard on the snorkel mouthpiece. Relax your jaw. If you are tense, you will tire quickly.
3. Don't Touch the Boat: If you are snorkeling from a boat, do not touch the hull if the engine is on. This is a major safety rule.
4. Look Up and Down: The beauty of snorkeling is that you can breathe while looking down, but don't forget to look up. Seeing the silhouette of the fortress against the sun is a spiritual experience.

Where to Eat: The Taste of the Island

Snorkeling burns calories. A lot of them. The cold water drains your energy, and you will be hungry. You cannot eat on the island itself (there are no restaurants), so you have two choices: pack a lunch or return to Peniche.

If you return to Peniche, you must go to:

Alternatively, if you want to stay on the island and picnic, there are designated picnic zones near the lighthouse. Bring a thermos of hot tea. Even in summer, the wind can bite after you exit the water.

The Logistics of Getting There

Getting to Peniche:
If you are driving from Lisbon, it takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes via the A8 and A15 motorways. The roads are good.
If you don't have a car, take the bus from Lisbon (Rede Expressos or FlixBus) to Peniche. The bus station is a short walk from the marina.

The Boat Tours:
You cannot book the boat tour from the island; you must book it in Peniche or online in advance.

• Address (Tourist Info): Port of Peniche, 2520-349 Peniche.
• Hours: Tours generally depart between 09:00 and 10:00 AM. You must be back at the boat by 14:00 or 15:00.
• Cost: Approximately €25-€35 per person for the standard boat tour. A private boat for 4 people can cost €150-€200.

Safety and Respect

I need to end on a serious note. The Berlengas are wild. The currents can sweep you away in seconds. The rocks are slippery with algae. The sun reflects off the water and burns you even through a wetsuit.

Please, respect the Reserve. Do not chase the birds. Do not stand on the nesting grounds. The Berlengas are one of the few places in Europe where the Cory's Shearwater breeds. If you hear a strange, haunting cry at night, that is them. We are guests in their home.

The feeling of floating over the Berlengas reefs is hard to put into words. It is a mix of adrenaline, awe, and a profound sense of peace. You are suspended between two vastnesses: the sky above and the deep ocean below. In that narrow band of life, there is color, movement, and silence.

So, pack your wetsuit. Find a good guide in Peniche. And jump in. The Atlantic is waiting, clearer than you can imagine.