Berlengas Snorkeling 2026: Best Spots & Marine Life You’ll See
The water off the coast of Peniche doesn't just look different; it feels different. Standing on the bow of the Rabo de Peixe, feeling the rhythmic thrum of the engine vibrating through the soles of my reef boots, I watched the Atlantic shift from a deep, ominous navy to a mesmerizing, translucent turquoise. It was July 2026, the air was thick with the promise of heat, but the wind coming off the headland of the Berlengas archipelago carried a sharp, salty bite that made you feel instantly, vibrantly awake.
I’ve snorkeled all over the world—in the warm, languid waters of the Caribbean, the coral cathedrals of the Red Sea, and the kelp forests of the Pacific Northwest. But there is something primal, almost prehistoric, about the waters of the Berlengas Nature Reserve. It is the Atlantic in its purest form: wild, clean, and teeming with a stubborn, resilient life that clings to these granite rocks against the full force of the open ocean.
If you are planning a trip here in 2026, you aren't just looking for a swim. You are looking for an entry into a protected ecosystem, a glimpse into the "Underwater Garden of Eden" that early Portuguese explorers described. This is what you need to know to find the best spots, identify the alien-like marine life, and navigate the currents that make this place so spectacularly alive.
The Journey Out: Peniche to the Forbidden Fort
The adventure begins in Peniche, a peninsula that juts out into the Atlantic like a defiant fist. This is a town defined by its relationship with the sea. While the surfers flock to the west coast for the massive waves, the snorkelers and divers head for the sheltered embrace of the Berlengas.
In 2026, the boat regulations have tightened slightly to protect the reserve. You can no longer just hire a private skiff and go wherever you please. Most visitors will book a guided tour, and honestly, this is the way to go. Not just for safety, but for context. My guide, Miguel, a local fisherman with skin like tanned leather and eyes that had mapped every underwater crevice of this archipelago, spent the twenty-minute crossing pointing out gannets diving like white javelins into the water.
We were heading for the Berlenga Island, the largest of the three islets, and specifically, the area surrounding the Forte de São João Baptista. This 17th-century fort, built on a rocky outcrop, is the iconic image of the Berlengas. It sits there, a fortress of stone and history, guarding the entrance to the lagoon. But beneath the waves surrounding it lies the real treasure.
The Best Spot: The Lagoon and the Fort’s Walls
Address: Berlengas Nature Reserve, 2525-412 Peniche, Portugal (Departure from Peniche Marina).
Hours: Tours typically depart daily from 9:00 AM to 11:00 AM during the high season (June–September) to avoid the afternoon swells. Off-season is by appointment only.
I slid into the water. The temperature was bracing—around 19°C (66°F)—but a good 4mm wetsuit is standard gear here, even in August. As my head dipped below the surface, the roar of the boat and the wind vanished, replaced by the amplified, rhythmic sound of my own breathing.
This is the spot you want to hit first. The lagoon between the main island and the fort is relatively shallow, ranging from 3 to 8 meters. The water clarity here is usually exceptional, often exceeding 20 meters of visibility. The currents are manageable, funneled gently through the channel.
I kicked gently, moving along the base of the fort. The walls are encrusted with life. Barnacles, mussels, and anemones create a textured tapestry of purples, oranges, and whites. But the real showstopper here is the vegetation. The Berlengas are home to the Lithophyllum byssoidoides, a calcareous red algae that forms "rabbit ear" mounds. They look like pale, alien coral structures. In the filtered sunlight, they glow with an eerie luminescence.
Floating there, suspended in the cool blue, I found myself face-to-face with the locals. The waters here are a nursery for the Salema porgy (Sargus rumbus). In the shallows, you will see thousands of juvenile fish, shimmering silver clouds that part as you approach. They are skittish but curious. If you stay still, they will circle back, their little eyes watching you with a mixture of fear and indifference.
The Deep Wall: Where the Ocean Begins
If you are a confident swimmer, the true magic happens just off the drop-off. The underwater topography of Berlengas is dramatic. You have the relatively flat lagoon, and then, suddenly, the bottom falls away into the deep Atlantic abyss.
Address: The Outer Reef, Berlenga Grande, off the coast of Peniche.
Hours: Accessible only during guided tours; typically restricted to slack tide windows (varies daily, usually mid-morning).
Following Miguel, we ventured past the fort to the outer reef wall. This is where the visibility often hits that magic 30-meter mark. The water turns a deep, cobalt indigo. Here, the marine life changes. The juveniles are gone, replaced by the adults.
I spotted my first Mediterranean parrotfish (Sparisoma cretense) of the day. These are large, charismatic fish with beaks that look like they were carved from ivory. They are the gardeners of the reef, crunching on algae with a sound you can actually hear underwater—a dull, rhythmic thump-thump-thump.
But the creature that defines a Berlengas dive in 2026 is the Gorgonian Sea Fan. These are not plants; they are animals, soft corals that grow in dense forests along the wall. They range in color from deep crimson to pale pink. The currents here are stronger, and the fans wave in the current like underwater trees in a breeze. Darting in and out of the fans were the Comber (Serranus cabrilla), with their distinctive vertical stripes, and the electric yellow of the Salema, now fully grown and unafraid.
The Marine Life Guide: What You Are Actually Seeing
One of the biggest mistakes people make in the Berlengas is swimming too fast. The water is cool, and the adrenaline is high. But if you stop, hover, and just look, the reef reveals its secrets.
The Grouper Encounter
In the deeper crevices, usually around the 12 to 15-meter mark, you might find the Dusky Grouper (Epinephelus marginatus). These are the kings of the Berlengas. They are solitary, massive, and curious. I had one encounter that I will never forget. I was hovering over a sandy patch near a rock formation known locally as "The Chimney," when a grouper, easily a meter long and weighing what felt like a hundred pounds, drifted out of the shadows. It didn't flee. It hovered there, eyeing me with an ancient, intelligent gaze. These fish are protected, and they seem to know it. They are the ghosts of the reef, watching the endless parade of snorkelers drift by.
The Garden Eels
If you drift over the sandy bottoms between the rocky outcrops, look for the "tick-tick-tick" movement. These are Spotted Garden Eels (Heteroconger hassi). They bury themselves in the sand with only their heads and upper bodies sticking out, swaying in the current to catch plankton. As you approach, they vanish into the sand in a synchronized retreat, only to pop back up a few seconds later a few feet away.
The 2026 Perspective: Conservation and Change
It is important to mention that the Berlengas in 2026 is not the same as it was ten years ago. The marine protected status is strictly enforced. You cannot touch anything. You cannot stand on the rocks. The sunscreen you wear must be mineral-based and reef-safe (they are checking at the marina now).
Why does this matter? Because it makes the encounter better. The fish are not terrified of you. The ecosystem is vibrant. I saw schools of Sea Bream (Diplodus vulgaris) that were so dense they blocked the sunlight. I saw nudibranchs—tiny, neon-colored sea slugs—crawling along the algae like living jewels.
Logistics for the 2026 Snorkeler
Getting into the water here isn't as simple as walking off a beach. You need a plan.
The Boat Trip
You will likely book a trip from Peniche. The standard "Berlengas Snorkeling" trip usually costs between €40 and €60 per person. This includes the boat, the guide, and usually a wetsuit, mask, and fins.
Address: Peniche Marina, R. da Bica da Costa, 2520-257 Peniche, Portugal.
Hours: Marinas are active from 7:00 AM, but ticket offices and tour operators generally open from 8:30 AM to 6:00 PM.
The Gear
Even in August, the Atlantic is fresh. A 4mm or 5mm wetsuit is highly recommended. The wind on the surface can make you cold quickly once you are wet. If you are prone to cold, bring a neoprene hood and booties. The rocks are sharp; you cannot enter the water without footwear.
Safety
The currents can be deceptive. The Atlantic swell can change in an instant. Never go alone. If you are snorkeling near the fort, watch out for the boat traffic; the small tenders ferrying people to the island can be hard to see when your face is in the water.
The Return: A Sunset to Remember
As the afternoon sun began to dip, turning the water into a sheet of hammered gold, we headed back to Peniche. The wind had picked up, and the sea was choppy, but the warmth of the sun on my face felt earned.
Snorkeling in the Berlengas isn't just a tourist activity; it's a reminder of the raw power and intricate beauty of the ocean. In 2026, as we look for authentic experiences, places where nature is still in charge, the Berlengas stand out. You will leave the water with stinging cheeks from the salt spray and a profound sense of having visited a place that is ancient, wild, and utterly indifferent to the modern world.
If you go, take your time. Watch the water. Listen to the gannets. And when you slip beneath the surface, let the cold shock wake you up to the spectacle waiting in the deep blue silence.